Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While we are on the topic of fuel pumps, who is running a GTR pump. I have been told that if you wire a GTR pump to get consant 14.5 volts. it can support up to 400RWKW is this correct? I had a walbro in my car and now l have a GTR pump wired

up in the mentioned configeration supporting well over 300RWKW.
  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

While we are on the topic of fuel pumps, who is running a GTR pump. I have been told that if you wire a GTR pump to get consant 14.5 volts. it can support up to 400RWKW is this correct? I had a walbro in my car and now l have a GTR pump wired
up in the mentioned configeration supporting well over 300RWKW.

400rwkw out of a GTR fuel pump? Sounds like a load of shit to me.

I got 300rwkw out of my walboro 255lph, BUT it wouldn't go below 12.8:1 afrs... I didn't mind because I run WMI.

I opened the injectors full on the power fc and the afr's didn't change.

So it would be safe to say that the walboro 255lph could only hold 250rwkw safely. Anything else and you're asking for a blown engine.

Anymore more than 14psi of boost is asking for trouble with them too. A lot of people are too ignorant to understand that boost has a heavy impact on the fuel pump that you are running cause boost is pushing back on the injectors..

I could be wrong but i think you would need an external set up to safely push 350 rwkw, especially if you are going to hit the track with it.

So you would need a surge tank, bosch 044 and use the pump already in the tank as a feeder.

Just my opinion though

I could be wrong but i think you would need an external set up to safely push 350 rwkw, especially if you are going to hit the track with it.

So you would need a surge tank, bosch 044 and use the pump already in the tank as a feeder.

Just my opinion though

Im not guna be hitting the track but I was hoping I didnt need to go external, I have spoken to a few people and everyone has had different opinoins so far which makes it even harder

Well Ill answer your question,

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE 350+ RWKW..

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE OVER 14PSI (I.E will no longer work at max capacity)

NO A WALBRO WILL NO SUIT YOU, YOUR OTHER OPTIONS ARE NISMO, TOMEI (they are the best options) YOUR OTHER OPTION IS A BOSCHE 040.

Nismo and Tomei drop in, Bosche 040 requires modifications.

(I got all this infomation from reading this thread, perhaps you should also do this.)

Edited by DECIM8
Well Ill answer your question,

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE 350+ RWKW..

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE OVER 14PSI

NO A WALBRO WILL NO SUIT YOU, YOUR OTHER OPTIONS ARE NISMO, TOMEI (they are the best options) YOUR OTHER OPTION IS A BOSCHE 040.

Nismo and Tomei drop in, Bosche 040 requires modifications.

(I got all this infomation from reading this thread, perhaps you should also do this.)

Well I cant see how a bosch 040 will handle that sort of power when the pump only flows 102l/h @ 6.5bar, maybe at least a bosch 044!

can people just understand that the xxxl\ph means nothing unless you look at the pressure against it?

For example -

205l/h at 70psi will flow more than a pump that does 255l/h at 40psi WHEN the pressure required is say, 60psi.

Im just preaching what people are saying..

14psi + 38psi fuel presure = 52psi .. was it not said that that pump was tested at 3bar? 14.2psi x3 = 42.6psi .. so 14psi is already higher than rated presure..

So your no longer running 255lph.. its still working but your running less fuel because of more presure.

Thats my understanding of it all, btw I cant remember what one bar is in PSI so its round about that.. I no its 14.2 or 14.7 isnt it?

risk vs cost i guess is important here

if you can save $300 but you find the AFR's drop off the face of the plannet at 5000rpm on full load, lean out city + rebuild time

then is it really worth the cost saving? why go all out on a psycho build only to skimp on something as important as fuel delivery

no fuel is fine, less fuel than expected is not however, thats when it leans out off the planet and rebuild light comes on

Im just preaching what people are saying..

14psi + 38psi fuel presure = 52psi .. was it not said that that pump was tested at 3bar? 14.2psi x3 = 42.6psi .. so 14psi is already higher than rated presure..

So your no longer running 255lph.. its still working but your running less fuel because of more presure.

Thats my understanding of it all, btw I cant remember what one bar is in PSI so its round about that.. I no its 14.2 or 14.7 isnt it?

Who says you NEED 255lph at 14 psi? You have a nice graph that Mafia posted on the previous page showing you the flow characteristics for the pump. You can work out that at 52psi pressure it's supplying approximately 204lph. The next step in claiming that the walbro outright can't handle 14 psi would be to work out how much fuel the RB25 needs.

From http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/FY...-Fl-t47081.html (you'd want to confirm this), the RB25 injectors flow 440cc/min at 52psi. 440cc/min = 26.4lph, for 6 cylinders that's 158.4lph. Less than 204lph if my maths is correct.

So please stop preaching rubbish.

Edited by govich

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...