Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Pulled my stock turbo off tonight (haha now have a non turbo R33) and have a few questions before i throw on the GT3037 Full R33 Bolt on Kit that was bought from JPS Trading.

1. Theres a water line that runs behind the back of the motor, how do you get to this to replace it with the braided line supplied in the kit?

post-46561-1202141986_thumb.jpg

2. There is no Gasket for Dump pipe? do i need one? or does it seal just by bolting it up?

post-46561-1202142141_thumb.jpg

3. What would this Grommit part be called and does anyone have a part number for it

post-46561-1202142209_thumb.jpg

4. Fittings (what goes onto what). Silver ones are ovbiously water lines, Smaller gold one top oil one

post-46561-1202142271_thumb.jpg

5. Anyone have any idea what the Black Bracket is for?

post-46561-1202142318_thumb.jpg

6. Gold Bracket, this looks like a heat shield that attaches through a clamp but have no idea what it is to protect?

post-46561-1202142387_thumb.jpg

7. Theres this Little Gold Pipe? no ideaas to what its for either.

post-46561-1202142454_thumb.jpg

8. Heat Shield, anyone know where on the turbo this mounts too? looks like some bolts i could unbolt however i dont like the idea of unbolting things out of the housings.

post-46561-1202142525_thumb.jpg

If anyone could give me a bit of insight (hopefully save me hours of scratching my head :blink:.. you guys/girls have been great so far!.

Edited by SLYDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204553-hks-gt3037-pro-s-bolt-on-kit-help/
Share on other sites

No offence, but can you read/look at instructions? i just installed mine a couple of weeks ago and it was simple, i done it all just by using the pictures in the instructions, no need to be able to read japanese, just look at the pictures, each picture will have the number of each part that is pictured, go back and refer to the parts list (has a part number beside each part) and then go from there, it is honestly very very easy, the only problem i had was rotating the compressor and exhaust housings so that the compressor housing wasnt touching the manifold and the oil drain was facing down towards the sump, it takes a bit of testing to get right.

Ill answer your questions anyway

1 = to get to the water feed remove the heater lines that run accross the top of the firewall next to the head, remove the coil pack cover, there is alsp 2 10mm bolts that hold the brackets for the stock line, you have to undo those ofcourse, then get a long nose pair of plies and undo the clip on the water line, the water line will then slide out.

2 = you dont need a gasket for the dump, everyone that i have read about hasnt used a gasket.

3 = not sure

4 = read the instuctions like i said above

5 = the black bracket is surpose to bolt to the afm and then bolt to the engine bay, it shows you in the pics, but mine didnt even fit which might have been because of the type of pod filter i am using, hks might of desgined it to be used with one of there "mushroom filters"

6 = yes that is a heat sheild, it is clamp on the little silicon joiners that connects the compressor outlet to the little cast turbo elbow which then connects to your intercooler piping, it is there to protect the silicon joiner from the heat of the ehxaust manifold as it sits very very close to it (mine is actually resting against the manifold).

7 = that is to join the left hand side cam covers breather pipe to the new pipe that is supplied in the kit which connects up to the smallest nipple on the intake pipe.

8 = that bolts to the turbo, the bracket with the slotted hole gets bolted up to one of the exhaust housing bolts that bolt that exhaust housing to the core of the turbo, the other bracket with just a hole in it slides over one of the dump pipe bolts on the back of the turbo, so fit the turbo and everything, and fit the dump pipe, then you will see were the heat sheild bolts up to, to be honest the bracket with the slotted hole is complete pain in the ass to get on, i would remove it and just use the bracket with the hole in it, and possbile make a different bracket for it, you will see once you get to fitting it how much of a pain it is!!

Hope that helps, sorry i had to rush that a bit as i got to get back to work lol, but if you have anymore questions feel free to send me a p.m.

Cheers

Jason

No offence, but can you read/look at instructions? i just installed mine a couple of weeks ago and it was simple, i done it all just by using the pictures in the instructions, no need to be able to read japanese, just look at the pictures, each picture will have the number of each part that is pictured, go back and refer to the parts list (has a part number beside each part) and then go from there, it is honestly very very easy, the only problem i had was rotating the compressor and exhaust housings so that the compressor housing wasnt touching the manifold and the oil drain was facing down towards the sump, it takes a bit of testing to get right.

Ill answer your questions anyway

1 = to get to the water feed remove the heater lines that run accross the top of the firewall next to the head, remove the coil pack cover, there is alsp 2 10mm bolts that hold the brackets for the stock line, you have to undo those ofcourse, then get a long nose pair of plies and undo the clip on the water line, the water line will then slide out.

2 = you dont need a gasket for the dump, everyone that i have read about hasnt used a gasket.

3 = not sure

4 = read the instuctions like i said above

5 = the black bracket is surpose to bolt to the afm and then bolt to the engine bay, it shows you in the pics, but mine didnt even fit which might have been because of the type of pod filter i am using, hks might of desgined it to be used with one of there "mushroom filters"

6 = yes that is a heat sheild, it is clamp on the little silicon joiners that connects the compressor outlet to the little cast turbo elbow which then connects to your intercooler piping, it is there to protect the silicon joiner from the heat of the ehxaust manifold as it sits very very close to it (mine is actually resting against the manifold).

7 = that is to join the left hand side cam covers breather pipe to the new pipe that is supplied in the kit which connects up to the smallest nipple on the intake pipe.

8 = that bolts to the turbo, the bracket with the slotted hole gets bolted up to one of the exhaust housing bolts that bolt that exhaust housing to the core of the turbo, the other bracket with just a hole in it slides over one of the dump pipe bolts on the back of the turbo, so fit the turbo and everything, and fit the dump pipe, then you will see were the heat sheild bolts up to, to be honest the bracket with the slotted hole is complete pain in the ass to get on, i would remove it and just use the bracket with the hole in it, and possbile make a different bracket for it, you will see once you get to fitting it how much of a pain it is!!

Hope that helps, sorry i had to rush that a bit as i got to get back to work lol, but if you have anymore questions feel free to send me a p.m.

Cheers

Jason

thanks for your help! however i was never supplied the instructions... (they wernt in the box).. hence the stupid questions.

Hey mate

Im just trying to scan my instrutctions for you, will hopefully be able to post them up soon, if they dont turn out great i wil try and get some decent pics of them.

Just finished scanning the instructions (thought i might aswell scan every page), they turned out pretty good, hopefully they are big enough to read, if you need them any bigger i can probly email them to you, or if you have msn messenger add me and i can send them to you that way ([email protected])

Picture.jpg

Picture003-1.jpg

Picture004-1.jpg

Picture005-1.jpg

Picture006.jpg

Picture007.jpg

Picture008-1.jpg

Picture009.jpg

Picture010.jpg

Picture011-1.jpg

Picture012.jpg

Picture013.jpg

Picture014.jpg

Picture015.jpg

Hopefully that helps :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...