Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 487
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah do try and come down on the weekend Krystal :banana:

I will be there on the Sunday only as have to attend the SAU Trackday on the Saturday..Maybe could enter the Datsun for that??

Oh nice work NYTSKY will be good to have your car and put it on the dyno maybe...

Cant wait to see yours as well Zilch ;)

I am now thinking I might enter mine as I have done some stuff and is looking pretty good and will hopefully have the horsepower to match :pwned:

Oh nice work NYTSKY will be good to have your car and put it on the dyno maybe...

I dont know about the dyno,320 odd RWKW doesnt seem to be high at these things.Im sure there will be some tough cars there.

I just want to show off the 19x10.5 i just bought :)

Yeah do try and come down on the weekend Krystal :D

I will be there on the Sunday only as have to attend the SAU Trackday on the Saturday..Maybe could enter the Datsun for that??

I was thinking sunday too. Datsun wont be ready, needs a roll cage, racing seats & harness befor we enter it in anything. Entering at Jamberee if anyones going.

Please note today is NOT the cut off day... From today, there is 1 month and 1 week til our cut off day...

Which is the 9th of May

so you dont need the form today? cause i forgot ot take it to work to fax it. ill email it through over the weekend.

paul i put the money in last night any probs let me know. :D

i think i'll miss this one, car is still very stock and average looking and not likely going to change in time... maybe final battle

Aww that's a shame..

Jess, Steve and Paul

I wont be able to enter Auto Salon in May.

But I am more than happy to come along on Friday night for set up, Saturday and Sunday to help and support our club.

Appologies Joey.

Aww thats cool you have a few under you belt anyway :D

Yep you can come along and help out and show support..It's going to be a bigger display this year!!

A few more weeks left till cut off date!!!

Those who are on my deffiante list will recieve a PM from me regarding the show.

also, i will need a contact number for each entrant.

Regards, Paul.

P.S - update on entrant forms please Steve

do we have a club banner? i need to hide some scars if i cant find a new front bar....

im still undecided at the moment....dont wanna jump in to the show with a bodgy lookin front bar...will let you know paul....cheers.

haha damnn Steven!!

if anyone doesnt use their buddypass, I'll be happy to come and kick it with you guys and girls......might have to give my car a miss this year - its got a few scars and im fairly new to the club (just sent in my forms)...

and +1 with Joey....if you guys need ANY help setting up, im more than happy to chip in, I work towards that part of town so i can always pop in the night before to set - up. :banana:

Cheers.

Edited by SHANE666

Have you recieved the quote from Jay, Paul?

Doof and I will be seeing him at Texi and I will be chatting to him about a few things..

Entrants please get your forms in, there will be a pm going around soon as a reminder :)

We still need to sort out bollards and roping and make sure we have decided on flooring :)

Do we want another meeting soon? To check on progress we only have 2 and bit months left :3some: Want to be ready!!

Highest Club Power award is done by total kw, not kw per car I believe, so every kw we put down will help us win what we should be rightfully winning anyway! :D

Is this definite? I would have thought that an average power figure would have been fairer. Ie average power of the cars dyno'd from each club? Or is it simply the combined total amount achieved?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...