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congrats nick.

doesn't it make a huge difference with the PFC tuned. so much low and mid-range power that is unlocked which transforms the car.

Thanks Andrew.

Yeah, it does! There's a little bit more lag, but that's to be expected with the longer piping of the FMIC kit... But once it's on boost, it pulls harder and feels heaps less held-back doing so!

I don't know if it's the new muffler (which makes the car a LOT quieter but still sounds nice), the new front pipe/dump, the new cat, the tune with the PFC in place, or a combination of the the whole lot working together, but it feels a lot smoother both at idle and through the rev range - there *seems* to be less vibration in the car overall...

Dyno sheet:

StageaDynorun16082008.jpg

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what boost control are you using (sorry if you already posted it) and how many psi were those runs at?

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

i have a turbosmart bleedvalve that came off my R33 if you want it. it'll cost you the time to pick it up.

or I can sell you my dual stage ebc (Hybrid brand) that holds boost fine for stock turbos, 12psi

no good for 1bar tho

cost me 270, plus install, can sell for a hundred I reckon

getting the profecB spec2 myself, to hold 1bar steady

No thanks guys, I think I'll eventually be going for a GReddy Profec-B spec II as well, as I hear nothing but good things about them.

Oh, I haven't yet done a "recording" of the boost curve up the rev range, but when I checked the peak boost last night after going for a drive, it's hitting right on 0.8bar (which is 11.76psi according to my calcs).

I've also noticed that it takes a lot longer for the turbo to cool down after a drive, so this leads me to two theories:

1. I'll have to check against the old standard dump pipe, but for now I'm assuming that the temp sensor has been placed in the same spot, and if it IS in the same spot; then

2. it looks like the turbo is now approaching that zone where the extra boost is no longer efficiently adding to power, and is now just added heat.

I agree with not going past the 12psi, however a good boost controller may bring that 12psi on harder and sooner which is what I have found testing witht he boost controller on and off.

I use a Blitz ID-3 and have on two different motors (one being twin turbo) and have found it to be fantastic on both applications.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm, fuelled up for the first time today after having the PFC (and other bits) installed, and my fuel economy seems to have improved at least a little.

I'll be going to Canberra in a week or two, so I'll see how the highway economy is and report back.

Alright peoples, I did a recording on the Defi's to see where my boost was sitting at, and as I mentioned it hit a peak of 0.85bar, which works out to 12.3psi, BUT that was only a spike lasting less than half a second.

When I watched the boost curve, it goes up and levels out at around 0.7bar, which is just a nudge over 10psi. Probably in a couple of months I'll get a boost controller, but I'll be going straight for a GReddy Profec B spec II, as I've heard nothing but good things about them.

the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. maybe it bring it on quicker and hold a little better or maybe not?!?

Edited by wolverine
the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. bring it on quicker and hold a little better.............

+1.

  • 3 months later...
so.... early series 1

engine harness : 09/96 - 08/97 24011-0V100

ECU : 23740-0V300

And a manual gear box

Would the R34 GTT Power FC work?? (Plug & Play)

or does the loom still need to be modified to make it work??

Unfortunately, there's no such thing as a plug-and-play PFC for the Stagea (unless you own a 260RS, in which case the R32 or R33 GT-R PFC will work). The Stagea is the only RB25DET-powered Nissan that also has AWD, so a few "tweaks" need to be done to get it working. Do a search for the "secret squirrel tweak" here in the Stagea section...

A manual gearbox is a priority, but as Duncan mentioned, Mark @ Hills Motorsports is looking for someone with an auto so he can trial running the PFC with the ECU for the auto, and see if he can get them co-operating.

  • 2 weeks later...

So the "secret squirrel tweak" is the only mod you need to to the loom!!

like Duncan said to me in a PM " since your's is already manual I think you'd be mad not to go a full computer like PFC."

i was talking to Trent at Status Tuning and was telling me to remap the ECU and go from there (E-manage, Safc...), then searching more on this forum about remapping the S1 stagea, only to find out that the S1 can't do real time?(Tangles Post)

not many tuners in melb. that have worked on the S1 and Power FC!

Remap fit and tune $750

+

E-manage fit and tune $1000+

Power FC and Mod, tune $2000

i just hope thats the only mod we'll need to do!

if the plug/loom is the same as an R33 then there should be no other modifications required for an R33 GTS-t PowerFC.

if the plug and loom is the same as the R34 then you will need to modify the loom to fit an R34 Gt-t PowerFC.

the tweak relates to the R34 GT-t having traction control and the stageas NOT having traction control (with the exception of some RWD versions). the R34 GT-t PowerFC requires a certain voltage to pin 51 or it lights the engine check light.

you need to find out which plug you have as that will determine the outcome. if a workshop has both R33 and R34 PowerFC's handy then that makes it easy.

Edited by wolverine

the stagea runs the r34 plug even is series 1 motor (same as series 2 r33 skyline). Depending on the computer part numbers as posted above there are somewhere between a couple and heaps of changes required to the wiring.

Mine was running the car really well except for Air Con which was not working yet (needs a relay added as stagea uses a negative/earth signal while the r34 uses a positive signal). The motor is currently out to have an rb30 bottom end bolted on the head so it should all turn out to be a good combo

  • 2 months later...

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