Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day Fellas,

i have a S15 JDM and i have just installed ISC coilovers.

i am having issues with them as when i turn left or right im getting a knocking noise.

i have checked out the coils and seems like that the springs are moving in their seats and is what is causing the knocking noise.

also i have seen that the pivot point on the inside of the coilover at the top below the strut tower is quite stiff and that it doesnt rotate with the cylinder therefore making the coils rotate. (if that makes sense)

does anyone else have an issue like this? if so how is this stopped?

your input is greatly appreciated.

thanks guys!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205474-isc-coilovers/
Share on other sites

I have had ISC for almost a year, and they have survived a beating and even an smack that killed my castor rods. Salad appears to have his panties in a twist for some reason and bags them out whenever he can, so yeah take it with a pinch of salt.

Unfortunately in this circumstance (S13/14/15) he is correct, I haven't seen this particular problem in Skylines, but they don't have struts.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205474-isc-coilovers/#findComment-3640343
Share on other sites

Unfortunately in this circumstance (S13/14/15) he is correct, I haven't seen this particular problem in Skylines, but they don't have struts.

Cheers

Gary

Have also seen this same problem with tein/hsd/JIC/buddy club etc not only in S13 but also wrx/mazda fc (as they have similar front suspension set ups).

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205474-isc-coilovers/#findComment-3640393
Share on other sites

Have also seen this same problem with tein/hsd/JIC/buddy club etc not only in S13 but also wrx/mazda fc (as they have similar front suspension set ups).

Ryan

It depends on the quality and size of the spherical joint used in the strut top. The cheaper (not necessarily "cheap") strut tops have undersized and/or low quality spherical bearings that wear out very quickly. They then become restricted in their freedome of rotation, which causes the spring seat to carry that load.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205474-isc-coilovers/#findComment-3642304
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...