Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I receive my engine for my S13!! The target I said again is 10.5sec at quarter mile so 350-440 wkw

Without to know before buy it the engine have

HKS Pistons 87mm

HKS Rods

HKS 272 rods

HKS adjustable gears (very old series without degrees print)

Nismo oil pump

But!! R32 early crank and they didn't put jun crank collar... absolutely no wear at oil pump but I need to put jun crank collar?

Also it has stock headgasket and stock studs... and we find a little water at 3rd cyllinder... the gasket was blown so we break down everything!

So I need to buy a gasket and a arp stud kit... I will do also the "oil problems job".. external oil return and tomei oil gallery offrice!

What thickness do you suggest me?

It has acl bearing but we saw one rod bearing a little worn so we will replace with acl again the rod bearings!

Also I will put an aftermarket timing belt because it has stock!

It has Greddy 8 iridium spark plugs!

272 cams aren't toooo big???? :| :| :|

What rev limit I need with theese monster cams?? :| :| :|

What rpm can I run without harmonic ballancer?

Also at the parts I received they don't send me the dropping resisostor for injectors!!

So either I buy one or i will use high impedence injectors?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206069-my-project-problems/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...