Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2002 HOLDEN MONARO V2 Series II CV8

Price: $29,990 PRICE DROP: $29,500

Kms: 93,500

Colour:Silver

Interior: Black Leather with Suede inserts

Transmission: 4 speed Automatic

Engine: 8 cylinder 5.7L (5665cc)

Rego till: JUL-2008

post-25223-1203310570_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310581_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310598_thumb.jpg

post-25223-1203310611_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310627_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310644_thumb.jpg

post-25223-1203310661_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310677_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310712_thumb.jpg

post-25223-1203310728_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203310855_thumb.jpg

Limited Edition Sports Coupe produced by Holden/GMC.

Car is perfect in every way with regular servicing (full log books and major service just completed) and perfect maintenance.

Car is mechanically perfect with no flaws and is strong and reliable. For a V8 car is entirely fuel economical managing a consistant 14.2l per 100kms (70L & Approx. $80 to fill with BP Ultimate) tank which is more fuel efficient than my wifes 2007 Suzuki Swift.

Mechanical upgrades include a factory enhanced braking upgrade consisting of the "Harrop Big Brake Upgrade" which entales New Harrop 8 pot calipers up front & New Harrop 4 pot calipers at the rear, New Harrop 330mm Cross Drilled Rotors at front & New Harrop 300mm Cross Drilled Rotors at the rear, Harrop Performance Brake Pads & New larger more durable/stronger brake lines. This means the cars braking power is quite ferocious if necessary and can stop on a dime if required making the car safety level even higher.

Another mechanical upgrade is a Pacemaker Header & Exhaust system which increases the flow of the exhaust gases & increases performance due to less restriction.

Final mechanical upgrade is sports suspension which is almost standard yet has Holden upgraded shocks to improve handling at speed.

The exterior is factory standard with Quicksilver paint which is protected and waxed using Mcguires products every 3 months to ensure no fading and lengthen the life of the Standard paintwork. Standard 18" Monaro Alloy Rims which provide mroe than adequate area for traction with new tyres installed very recently.

Car is washed at least once a week as i am meticulous and quite retentive/obsessive with cleanliness.

The Interior is also standard black leather on all four electric bucket seats and door inserts. Suede is sewed into the kick panels and the bottom half of the dash to accentuate the clean lines and comfortable interior.

Interior is cleaned, wiped down and vacuumed at least once a week as i am meticulous and quite retentive/obsessive with cleanliness.

Interior is conditioned in Meguires leather cleaner/protecter/conditioner to keep interior looking fresh and new every 3 months

Car has been kept in prestine condition & Interior and Exterior has been left Factory/Standard with few mechanical upgrades (most from factory options) as the car is a limited edition and is no longer in production.

As the car is limited edition, depreciation will not affect this car much at all (Monaros havnt dropped more than $1200 in the past 2 years - A Fact that can be retrieved from the RTA or Redbook for a small Fee)

All mechanical inspections welcomed and will performed if buyer is genuine.

Reason for sale is looking to downgrade as i am moving to Canberra Federal Police Academy for work overseas & will require a smaller car for travel to & from Wollongong & wouldnt like to put excessive kms on such a car.

If you have any queries or further questions i am available days (work most nights but will endevour to answer calls/SMS/e-mails) and willing to have car inspected first hand with possible test drives to genuine buyers.

NOT ENCUMBERED OR ON REVS. No money is owing against this vechicle at all.

Will trade with:

- Honda S2000

- Nissan 350Z

- S15 (90BRO Is Perfect)

Possibly Consider Trade with: (prefer show than go)

- RX7 FD

- R34 (MR R34 - I Wish)

- R33 (WEAPN or 2 WIN - I Wish)

- S14a (Fibermotive - I Wish)

Edited by jakegts
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/
Share on other sites

black_gtst

Hey Brett, Thanks for link. I have viewed that car before but i personally feel it is a little too pricey but i do regularly check it out to see if i am tempted. Appreciate the help 2 !

SLYNE

PM sent as you have given me no additional information

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3654559
Share on other sites

rb30gtr

I have already had 3 jap cars and loved them.

Love this car but dont want to put heaps of kms on it with trevelling to and from Canberra.

Would love S2k or 350z but i do like alot of jap cars also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3654799
Share on other sites

All PM's replied and questions about trades:

- Willing to meet half way if the car is right

- Cash adjustments is possible and will be fair for both parties

- Cars of particular interest are in the thread and are S2000 & 350Z

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3659796
Share on other sites

I have had a few people ask me about the fuel consumption and if i have made a mistake.

To confirm i have takena photo of my on board fuel consumption and my wifes suzuki swift which is basically new. They are the same. A V8 and a 4 cylinder the same is madness but Monaros are quality cars.

Monaro----------------------------------------Suzuki

post-25223-1203560803_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203560793_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3663002
Share on other sites

I have had a few people ask me about the fuel consumption and if i have made a mistake.

To confirm i have takena photo of my on board fuel consumption and my wifes suzuki swift which is basically new. They are the same. A V8 and a 4 cylinder the same is madness but Monaros are quality cars.

Monaro----------------------------------------Suzuki

post-25223-1203560803_thumb.jpg post-25223-1203560793_thumb.jpg

isnt the suzuki on 14.1 km/ltr

and the holden is on 14.1 ltrs/100 km?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3741621
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Nice Monaro!

Probably not practical due to distance but let me know if you're interested in dealing with my R34 (see link) and we'll worry about that then.

If not then good luck with the sale.

Mark.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...to-t213515.html

Edited by son's slave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3788911
Share on other sites

Yeah it is, i thought i fixed it on this site, my apologies, could have been bost.

CV8 is litres per 100kms and Swift is kms per litre

So for your Monaro travelling 100KM, your swift actually does 198KM...

So your swift is doing 7.05L/100km... :P

I would have considered a swap on it, but I can't live with 14L/100km daily...

Nice car though... I have seen it before... Friends with Owen... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3788983
Share on other sites

son's slave

Thanks for the offer but i am looking for something a little bit different, appreciate your time though.

MBS206

Car can chew the fuel if you have a heavy right foot on the loud pedal, i am kind to my cars and i miss my old skyline that owen has, such a hot car.

A full tank gets me 3 weeks of travel so it is the most fuel economical car i have ever owned so i have no complaints with it. So damn comfortable too with the lounges in there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206563-monaro-cv8/#findComment-3789181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...