Jump to content
SAU Community

What Turbos Are You Running On Your Rb25?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys...just wondering what sort of turbos are most running with RB25's ? as mine at the moment is already out of puff at 8000rpm currently its a GT25/30 hybrid setup thanks to MTC turbos , looking into a VG30 guise turbo with larger internal and external housings or even a GT 45/60? currently car mkes in between 245rwkw-289ish on 1 bar boost any advice would be appricated

Aim isnt daily driveablity more just outright touqe as long as it hits 300kw im happy

P.S im not worried about lag.. also i would like to keep it in stock mount position

cheers

Edited by 53XYN

vish vish vish, im sure either gt30xx being the 3076 or hks version 3037 (500 ps turbo's) will suffice, will get ya close, but i guess you cant go past the gt3040 varient as im sure it will get your mark and more id go 3040(600 ps) for your car, But gees havent you blown it up yet? last time i heard you had "knocking" with the power, then before that bent valve guide, just build the engine then you'll be happy, atleast for a little while, stock cams stock head stock everything, somethings gotta give somewhere.

vish vish vish, im sure either gt30xx being the 3076 or hks version 3037 (500 ps turbo's) will suffice, will get ya close, but i guess you cant go past the gt3040 varient as im sure it will get your mark and more id go 3040(600 ps) for your car, But gees havent you blown it up yet? last time i heard you had "knocking" with the power, then before that bent valve guide, just build the engine then you'll be happy, atleast for a little while, stock cams stock head stock everything, somethings gotta give somewhere.

Adam adam adam hehe how are ya mate ! yeah its getting the rebuild done as we speak been there over a week already hopefully pick up on this friday general rebuild with forged pistons and a few small bits and pcs (warranty funded) ... now looking for a better turbo so i can push it beyond 300 mark

Chai sometime this week ? :teehee:

go GT3540 :) i dont reckon they are "that" laggy on a 25 and will pack a huge punch especially now you got the built motor to back it up with

did you build the neo or go to an R33 Rb25?

go GT3540 :D i dont reckon they are "that" laggy on a 25 and will pack a huge punch especially now you got the built motor to back it up with

did you build the neo or go to an R33 Rb25?

neo motor just a lil over 5 grand for the bill warranty footed out 3500 for it rest i had to fork out due to forged pistons i wouldnt mind the GT3540.. what power do they hold comfortably ?

gt3540 700ps roughly so around 400 + rwkws or there abouts anyway being a larger base turbo you may have hard luck trying to fit it on the stock manifold, for starters your pushing shit uphill running more than 300 on the stocko manifold anyway vish best to go aftermarket save the hassel and ultimately external wastegate is the best option as well, what you want it for dyno queen or you want to drive it, gt3040 is the best bet and will generally see the 350 rwkw mark with ease.

But that said you have so many limiting factors here, one stock manifold, 2. is the stock 248deg cams and yes you have stock head no port no polish only upgraded valve springs. so many improvements could be gained from doing something to the head that way not so much money on the turbo and that said more response to be held. easier driveability etc etc.

And here is an idea piss that auto crap off and replace it with a manual, i dont know the threshholds of the autos on the 34 gtt but hey we will find out :D

Welcome to reality of expense in the modding world vish. Best bet is do a search throughout the FI area you may gain a better response aswell or post up in there and they shall help you.

As for chai, hmmmmm friday week maybe.

Cheers

A

Oops i forgot to mention, Useable boost, the bigger you go with the less work you do the less play you have. All well and good having a giant turbo 3540 area + on a forged bottom end, but if you haven't got the necessary other bits the useable area or full boost plus maybe 2300 rpm of play, Hence my recommendation on the smaller gt30xx series turbos being 40's 76's or 37's :D Hope that helps vish

Cheers

Thanks Tiff :D your car is sex on wheels :/ glad its yellow hehe your cars the beasty version of mine .. mines just a pretty trailer queen lol

Ben im comming on monday to see how far off or better the reading is of your hired dyno compared to godzilla's dynodynamics should be a good day out i'll hit u up on sunday

Dan ma man dont worry im still too slow :(

Noel's running a GT3540.. definately good for over 400rwkw. Your definately going to need cams though. Why do you want to keep the stock low mount ?

because when you open the bonnet it looks fairly inconspicuous, my old car was making 300rwkw but to look at the engine bay was nothing special

post-21318-1203483539_thumb.jpg

the 30/40 unless you are doing head mods and cams etc, Mine has extensive mods in this area and i see full boost by 4100 rpm, plenty of playroom to 8500 rpm.

If you are going lowmount I reckon you should at least look at an aftermarket manifold as the stocker becomes a hindrance once you start making up around the high 200 kw's atw's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...