Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine:

O-Ringed, Line bored, Bored to 87mm and torque plate honed block

N1 Water Pump

Arias 87mm Forged Pistons

87mm N1 piston rings

Argo Billett Conrods

Genuine R33 GTR Crank

N1 NDC bearings

Complete bottom end balance (Clutch/flywheel, rods, pistons and crank)

ARP Main Stud Kit

ARP Rod Bolts

ARP Head Studs

Tomei Cam Studs

Trust Sump Extension, baffle and pickup

Jun Oil Pump

Jun 272 10.5mm IN & EXT Cams

Tomei Adjustable cam gears

Jun Valve Phosphor Bronze Guides

Jun Valve Springs

Precision valve shims

Head fully serviced and machined to accept cams

Nismo Engine mounts

HKS 1.6mm Full head gasket kit

Garrett T04Z 0.84 Split Pulse Turbo with ceramic coated rear housing

6-Boost steam pipe manifold (split pulse) ceramic coated

Tial 44mm Wastegate

Braided Oil and Water turbo lines

Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator

Sard 800cc Injectors

Bosch 044 pump mounted internally

600x300x120mm Intercooler

Trust Type-R Blow off Valve

HKS Hard pipe kit

K&N 9 inch air filter

Blitz SBC ID-III Boost Controller

Apexi Power FC D-Jetro with Hand controller

Yashio Factory Triple core radiator

Greddy Air Diversion Plate

3” Front pipe heat wrapped

Decat pipe

Apexi N1 90mm Cat back

OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch

Essential Oil Catch Can

Nismo Short Shifter

Suspension:

Tein HA Coilovers

Nismo Front strut brace with Brake Cylinder stopper

RSR Rear strut brace

Whiteline Subframe alignment kit

Whiteline front camber kit

Whiteline rear camber kit

Whiteline castor kit

Buddy Club Hyper Gold P1 Racing Wheels with near new 235/45/17 Nankangs all round

Hicas Lock bar with Lines and solenoid completely removed.

Exterior:

N1 Nostrils

N1 Side Skirts

Carbon Fibre N1 Bonnet Lip

Carbon Fibre N1 Boot Lip

Trust rear pods

Ganador Mirrors

6000k HID Kit

White LED Park lights

Interior:

Impul 300km/hr speedo

2wd/4wd Switch

Apexi Power FC Hand Controller

Blitx SBC ID-III Boost Controller

Apexi Turbo Timber

Autowatch Cat-4 Alarm

Defi BF Oil Pressure

Defi BF Boost

Defi Link Controller

Pioneer MP3/CD Head Unit

Pioneer 3-way Front

Pioneer 2-way Rear

Momo Race Steering Wheel

New leather gear and handbrake boots

Car is in immaculate condition, boot holes have been removed and boot lock shaved professionally. Motor was built less than 4000km's ago and has not missed a beat since then, only had BP98 in the tank and Mobil 1 changed every 1000km's. Ant Scali from X-Speed tuned to 430rwkw/575rwhp on 24psi with no cam timing changed and conservative timing/fuel maps.

Overall it's a seriously quick car for street, drags or track. I have built this car over the last 2 years to be the best it can be, engine is super responsive for the power and gets over 1 bar of boost before 3800rpm in 4th gear and pulls smooth all the way to 8500rpm.

Looking for offers around $38, 000

Any more info needed, please dont hesitate to ask via PM or 0422426866

Cheers

Simon

IMG_2161.JPG

iwsvbl.jpg

111353m.jpg

122bt05.jpg

Edited by Cerbera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206647-r32-gtr-430rwkw575rwhp-immaculate/
Share on other sites

sorry no 1/4 times as i have not run it at the drags...

pics were taken at motovation 2008, a non drag racing event at the kwinana motorplex

Edited by Cerbera
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...