Jump to content
SAU Community

Motorplex meet.


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by MrSnrub

Boostor as for insurance, there is very little that can happen on a drag strip. Driving ina  straight line..... not much can go wrong.

Apart from a mechanical failure but thats not covered by insurance anyways.

Ben

Famous last words?:D

Dont worry about me im just paranoid:D

ill be there.

gunna have to setup the boost controller this weekend.

we gunna cruise down in a pack?

maybe a north group meet, then to the south group then to the plex?

summoner, you been down the track with the 5sp + computer yet?

Shaun

Guest Rhino

Sounds like we live within a few minutes of each other Boostzor, I have seen a few supras like yours floating around the Bullcreek/Willetton area but to be honest haven't looked to closely at them to see if they ahd the same mags as you.

Question:

For ppl who have run a 1/4 before what sort of launch rpm do you use and how different is it from the rpm you use on the street? higher...lower??

Just trying to get a rough idea of what to try on the 18th.

I think Gradenkowas saying launch at around 5.5 when on street its like 4.7. I launch alot earlier so im not sure about the lines.

Leaving work to go get my car back now minus one wheel (spare) and one flat battery due to the fact its been left off the road soo long. *does the anti-moron dance*:D :burnout:

In theory, my safc is at the post office on monday, if i can get it in, boosted and tuned next week, im there too. If not, ill watch, its always good seing commodores get eaten by, well anything, theyre always "WTF".

Doesnt the price to race include a temporary andra licence and insurance?

http://www.andra.com.au

They are the drag racing governing body. They take care of licencing, rules, all the boring stuff. To drag race you have to have an andra licence, thats part of the fee you pay to race at the plex. Theres some info there, and some on the plex site, that tells you exactly what you get for your money.

Well I just got the KCA349 parts fitted for maximum traction (not drift :P ) and I must say I give it the big thumbs up. Definately getting more traction on takeoff and cornering (rear end seems much stiffer) which is all good when you've got 0.8bar running through the turbo (the back end was getting too tail happy). So if its dry on sunday and cool I'll be down there trying to get into the high 13's.

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...