Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. I have numerous parts for sale. Its all just stuff i had lieing around after the mods. Im happy to send stuff interstate, cept the wheels im not sure what aus air express will say if i try to fit wheels in an overnight bag.

Bosch 040 Fuel pump $200

Used for about 200 kilometres before i got 044.

3inch/1inch twin front pipe $150 (Custom)

Flange to suit standard R33 turbo.

3inch catalytic converter $150

Used for about 4000 kilometres. Flowed enough exhaust for 250rwkw about a week ago so its not blocked.

K&N Panel filter for R33 Airbox $30

Its a filter, in the shape of a panel oh and its a k&n :)

R33 Fuel injectors 370cc and rail $150

They are perfect except for missing pintle caps

I will be posting all the pics tomorrow morning first thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20728-r33-parts-various/
Share on other sites

Grim: Your local exhaust place will be able to do it for 30/40 bucks probably, they all have 3 inch flanges suitable for this cat im sure.

YBSLO4: Im certain that the 040 will be fine for that power level. 044 flows enough for 600-650hp its very big.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20728-r33-parts-various/#findComment-437656
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
×
×
  • Create New...