Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

um lol u seriously wanna compare a GTR to a GTS... well.. hmm

there's no comparison.... if you can afford it get a GTR, if you can't GTS. If you want sumfin that's drivable every day and won't scare the pants off ya, then get a GTSt. GTS is too boring... mines a daily driven and is basically my run around car. Can't wait to get my weekend car next yr :O

It depends on your wallet size... 40k should see you in a GTR, 19k should see you in a GTSt, 15k should see you in a GTS. What's can you afford?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435054
Share on other sites

JAGR33 is close to the Mark as usual I sold my old 97 for $48500 about a year ago had done 50,000kms only small modes such as Power FC, pods, injectors etc. Damm I miss that car. V Specs go for slightly more.... Find me a 97 for 35G and I will buy two!! Mine had 250kw at all fours wiht budget mods so easy to get more power from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435449
Share on other sites

Guest 180sx_nissan_guru

JAGR33, it aint that hard. shit i drove past a car yard the other day and they had a white R33 GTR sitting in under all the commodores. you just gotta look around. look in dealerships AND look localy, like around the streets, it aint that hard.

or if your really desperate just go and import one, should save you a few.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435472
Share on other sites

My GTR is a 97 and 2 years ago it cost well over 50k. The car was in very good/excellent condition.

Nowadays, you'd still be looking at around the 50k mark for a good condtion 97 model.

95 models are around the low-mid 40k mark. I infact know a 95 model in excellent condition being sold for 43k if anyone is interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435792
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 180sx_nissan_guru

JAGR33, it aint that hard.

dont argue with jack... he's BIG and scary lol!

but there is NO was you'll get one for 35 G's.

dont bother arguing with the guys that have replied here, cause they all own(ed) one.

QUOTE OF THE DAY:

tell him he's dreamin    

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435818
Share on other sites

well see the thing is i was just wondering if cops will be looking out for high performance cars and well i have two options get a GTR straight out or get a GTSt and then trade in the GTSt and get a GTR when i 'm off my P's

What dya recon would i get busted?

Or would you say as long as i'm not speeding or the cops don't have a reason to pull me over i'd be fine?

Or i'm i sure to get busted?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-435893
Share on other sites

Good R33's over here in Perth are still around the $50k mark unless you want a smash repair job. Series II's will be around the $55 - $60k mark for a good one.... Mine's a 95 and cost me $49k last year.

Oh and 260 - 280kw at the fly is waaaayy over the mark for a stock GTR. Maybe 220 - 240... Though very easy to get that with minimal mods....

I've owned a GTST and the GTR and they don't compare. A GTST is a good car and is better than anything aussie, but a GTR is in another stratosphere. Apples and Oranges if you try and compare the two....

my 2c

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20730-gtr-specs/#findComment-436117
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...