Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have posted this in the brakin section but i thought it might actually get a response in here??

Now i have heard that this a a relativly easy exercise??

I have a SVD GTS which apparently already has the same front struts as the R32? and therfore the new callipers will bolt straight onto the front of my car..?

But wat is the go with the rear???

I am mainly doin this as there is little choice of wheels for the 4 stud cars.. unless anyone can point me in the right direction there also.. but 4 spot fronts would be nice.. mmmmmm

Thanks for any help guys

ray

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207377-4-stud-to-5-stud/
Share on other sites

GTS struts are not the same as R32, as R31's have Macpherson strut fronts (Like S13) and R32 have Double wishbone.

Converting the Fronts to 5 stud is easy.

Press a S14 or R33 balljoint into the R31 arm, Use S14 hub/Knuckle/Stub Axles, and use R32 calipers and rotors.

Remove olive from r32 Caliper and use S13 banjo bolts so you can use R31 brake lines.

Rears are a little more complicated if you want to do it properly.

You can get a 4 to 5 stud hub adapter/spacer made, but you'd need to have some high-ish offset wheels to use them, as the narrowest ones Ive seen are like 30 mm or something.

or EA falcon axles from a wrecker, send to a diff specialist.

They need to be shortened by about an inch, and have 5 - 10mm machined off the bearing platform (Not Sure if thats the exact term for it), Then resplined and heat treated, then redrill stock rotors to 5 stud.

Was quoted $500 all up for this inc. installation.

Decided just to get 4 stud wheels that fit instead, Which is still my recommended option over a 5 stud conversion.

I had wheels custom made by ROH here in adelaide, in 18 x 9 +/- 0 and 18 x 10 + 5 (I have very large all metal flared guards on the car, and my sideskirts are like 2 inches off the floor)

Seeing as you have a GTS2 as well, Id suggest getting good offset 4 stud wheels so you dont have something thats very hard to reverse, as your car has good resale value, and is getting kinda rare.

You can still do the 4 pot brake upgrade too I believe, GTS2's have import struts, which have the 100mm bolt spacing required for R32 calipers. Just remove the olive and use an S13 banjo bolt.

Edited by R31 drift pig
GTS struts are not the same as R32, as R31's have Macpherson strut fronts (Like S13) and R32 have Double wishbone.

Converting the Fronts to 5 stud is easy.

Press a S14 or R33 balljoint into the R31 arm, Use S14 hub/Knuckle/Stub Axles, and use R31 calipers and rotors.

Remove olive from r32 Caliper and use S13 banjo bolts so you can use R31 brake lines.

Rears are a little more complicated if you want to do it properly.

You can get a 4 to 5 stud hub adapter/spacer made, but you'd need to have some high-ish offset wheels to use them, as the narrowest ones Ive seen are like 30 mm or something.

or EA falcon axles from a wrecker, send to a diff specialist.

They need to be shortened by about an inch, and have 5 - 10mm machined off the bearing platform (Not Sure if thats the exact term for it), Then resplined and heat treated, then redrill stock rotors to 5 stud.

Was quoted $500 all up for this inc. installation.

Decided just to get 4 stud wheels that fit instead, Which is still my recommended option over a 5 stud conversion.

I had wheels custom made by ROH here in adelaide, in 18 x 9 +/- 0 and 18 x 10 + 5 (I have very large all metal flared guards on the car, and my sideskirts are like 2 inches off the floor)

Seeing as you have a GTS2 as well, Id suggest getting good offset 4 stud wheels so you dont have something thats very hard to reverse, as your car has good resale value, and is getting kinda rare.

You can still do the 4 pot brake upgrade too I believe, GTS2's have import struts, which have the 100mm bolt spacing required for R32 calipers. Just remove the olive and use an S13 banjo bolt.

Thanks for that mate..

I will jsut look for some wheels first, as like u said i do want it easy to put back to std. but i will definatly be chuckin a set of r32 calipers at it..

I would really like to run 19's on it,.., but buggered if i can find any decent ones.. :banana:

Ray

as you might be able to tell i have already done this to my GTS2,

i used HSD HR S-13 coilovers, S-13 hubs, brought a set of S-13 5-stud hubs from "justjap", i also used s-13 tie rod ends with adaptors i got from the r31 forum (i used s-13 lower control arms which are longer then the r31 arms so the r31 tie rod ends were too short to safely use) i went to the r32 4 pot callipars & rotors.

the rears i had 2" adaptor plates made to mount the coilovers, got the r31 rear axles filled and re-drilled to 5-stud by an engineering place here on the gold coast $300 with brand new longer studs installed and the rotors re-drilled to 5-stud.

  • 2 weeks later...

Running 19's on your GTS is illegal as well. You can only run 18's.

Why did you buy a GTS if you want to mod a car?

Everyone on here knows I am the ultimate pain in the arse when it comes to modding one of these. Unless yours is a heap of shit, or very unoriginal, leave it alone.

I do like RSX84's car above, but that is under sufferance.

It's hard to find the right offset in a 4x114.3 stud pattern, there is lots of info on them here - www.r31skylineclub.com. I know you have been there, and the R31 forum has much more info for your 31 than here. (Not hanging shit on this one though). Horses for courses. As I said in one of your other threads, contact me on [email protected] if you would like any decent info, genuine parts or just general help.

:D Now that Cazz is on your case, I wouldnt be putting 19's on it LOL......

Get some white 16's/17's in good offsets and widths and Keep the GTS-2 wheels aside. Your car is worth a lot more the less it's modded. Unless someones been at it before you, Buy a S3 Exec or GX if you want to mod it. As you have 100mm caliper spacing, Get a pair of R32 calipersa and chuck em on, but keep the stock gear.

I couldnt do what Ive done to mine to a GTS2.... :D:D

my ideas behind modding mine was more along the lines of bolt on parts, all the work i have done is reversible. all parts removed are stored as i have no need to sell them. i like the interior and love the colour, kit is perfect...

My plans are to make it all reversable.. thats why im now trying to find 4 stud wheels.. and 19's are legal in tas..... as long as my tyres dont go 25mm above std hight.... but i will prolly go 18's so that i have a bit more tyre,,,,

im only interested in putting wheels and a bit better brakes on it... as much as i love the car id like it to stop better!

im only interested in putting wheels and a bit better brakes on it... as much as i love the car id like it to stop better!

Then switch to R32 front calipers with S13 banjo bolts, and Id go looking for some 17's actually, lots more available in 4 stud in good widths and offsets.

Then switch to R32 front calipers with S13 banjo bolts, and Id go looking for some 17's actually, lots more available in 4 stud in good widths and offsets.

Kool so with 32 calipers i dont need to change my disc size??

I'll keep an eye out for wheels for sure. i'll fine sumthing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...