Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just eoi at the moment but thinking of selling my car.

Its stock as a box bar 3in split dump/front, high flow cat and kakimoto exhaust and hks ebc.

94000kms on the clock and very very clean and strait.

its auto and has work equipes on it....

any ideas what it is worth??

Thanks John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207457-whats-it-worth-thinking-of-selling/
Share on other sites

what brings it down?

- auto + 4wd

- 4 door

HAHAHA.. man 4DR > 2DR any day of the week.. defiantly look tougher with a kit on.. 2drs are ridiculesly common >_> lol@u :laugh:

id say 7-10k >_> all depends on the crowd ur sellin it too i spose :P gl with the sale mate

Edited by 32JEZ
Could only be said by a 4dr owner :(

Ever wonder why 4drs are always cheaper than 2drs

+1

i am sorry to say that you would be lucky to get 9k for it.

best o luck with the sale though, keep it locked up until its classic then sell it stock as a rock, it will be worth more then.

AUTO is the main problem.

the next problem is the 2L and 1450kg.

I sold this for $12K about 2 years ago.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1311.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1318.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1300.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1322.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1314.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1313.jpg

There is currently one for sale on here in Manual and in REALLY good condition for $10K but that won't sell for that price too.

4wd, rb20 is the worse possible combo ever.

Expect it to go to a new owner for about $7K if you get lucky.

Truth of the matter is, a 4 door is worth less then a 2 door as they are less desirable, unless the potential buyer wants a 4 door, which in this case as your car is auto makes it worth less again.

I personally found when buy/selling gtst’s, gts4’s were less wanted. Your car also has the “tweedy” fabric, which is less desirable.

It’s not worth $10k, as you can pick up R33’s for that. It’s worth about $7k - $8k (in my opinion).

funny as i have a 2 door when i purchased it when i was living in auckland 2 doors were reare as hens teeth like i was looking for like 8 months

onlye ever waw 2 2 door turbo 5 spds this was in 99 the 2 i saw were sold

and i purchased the 3rd one

but there were 4 doors everywhere

just my 2 c

  • 2 weeks later...
funny as i have a 2 door when i purchased it when i was living in auckland 2 doors were reare as hens teeth like i was looking for like 8 months

onlye ever waw 2 2 door turbo 5 spds this was in 99 the 2 i saw were sold

and i purchased the 3rd one

but there were 4 doors everywhere

just my 2 c

mate that was real hard to read.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...