Jump to content
SAU Community

Painting Brake Calipers

SiR_RB

By SiR_RB,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

Did mine anodised red, only had to use one can and used aluminium brake/caliper paint as a primer.

I've got a red "S" logo on my grille, and a red "O" on the nismo logo on my LMGT3's so it's not like the red is out of place

Make sure you thoroughly clean your calipers, and the nissan logo I covered with blue-tak, just peel off once finished and the nissan logo will be unpainted. I also sanded back the logo to make it shine again.

Was gonna go brembo gold but the shop only had red at the time...

post-29425-1203975636_thumb.jpg

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

to clean them i got a can of Nulon brake cleaner, we used it when i helped my brother inlaw do his GTR. you just spray it on, and blow it off with the air compressor and it just dries up instantly.

i might do them this weekend, i'l try get sum pics up when there finished :ninja:

8110 Mentor

8110

Posted
Posted

NA_Goodness, the rotors are Project Mu SCR-PRO.

Stagecoach, initially I was aftering the Endless Rotors (they are blue), thus the blue would match. In then end, I ended up with Project Mu. But I do have other blue bits to match, the Ray Engineering lug nuts are blue (looks green in the pic tho). My engine cover is blue too but of course that isn't visible.

IMG_0644.jpg

Lil_Bobby_260 Mentor

Lil_Bobby_260

Posted
Posted

Tidy.

Mine are going a candy apple red, with gold brembo lettering, to match the engine bay also. (candy red cam covers, coildpack cover and gear cover) with gold R34 V-spec GTR badge on the coilpack cover.

Its all about keeping the car to a theme... and limiting it to a main colour, with one or two accents. In my case, black car, candy red accent with gold details.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
Brake calipers do need high temp wtf said that is a retard.. Ive boiled my fluids time after time.. so trust me normal paint wont work

have you tried normal paint? i have and it worked fine..

the hot part is the rotor and the friction surface of the brake pad

i personally don't want others to have to waste money on high-temp paint if they don't have to or don't want to

Lil_Bobby_260 Mentor

Lil_Bobby_260

Posted
Posted
have you tried normal paint? i have and it worked fine..

the hot part is the rotor and the friction surface of the brake pad

i personally don't want others to have to waste money on high-temp paint if they don't have to or don't want to

VHT 1200 degree paint is about $8 more than export quality shit paint... 1200 might be overkill but its better than the aerosol pressure pack nail polish you get for $4.95 a can.

If they are worried about saving $8 here and there, they shouldnt be driving an import.

Id pay the extra for heat proof simply because its also degreaser proof etc. Can clean down ur wheels and brakes without worrying ur paint will peel or flake off at some point. I figure do it once, and do it properly.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

look mate, i agree with you and i painted my hubs with heat proof paint even though they don't get hot at all!

but what i am trying to say is that you CAN paint with normal paint if you want to

someone might be on a massive budget, or might not be able to get their desired colour in the high-temp stuff, so the possibility is there and i'm giving them the info they might need

i condone doing it right the first time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...