Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: 1999 N15 Pulsar SSS Series 2 (SR20DE)

Milage: 170k Km

Transmission: Manual

Colour: White

Location: West Melbourne

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? Yes

Currently registered? Yes

Price: $11,000 or swap for Japanese turbo'd car (180sx, Silvia, R32, Supra, etc)

Contact: PM or ssbuttcrack[at]hotmail[dot]com

Comments / Modifications:

Very much a regretful sale, but our family is growing and we need to get a bigger place closer to work. The car has served me well to and from work and gets great fuel economy (around 600km per tank). It has approx 170,000 km on the clock. The interior is in perfect condition and still has genuine Pulsar floor mats front and back! I have had it serviced regularly and the log books show that (car will be service before sale). It has been kept in the carport since i have had it and in an undercover carpark at work.

Performance:

-Hi-Tech headers.

-2" mandrel bend system with SuperCat turbo muffler and twin inline resonators.

-K&N High Flow pod air filter.

-CAI piping from foglight hole to behind battery.

Handling:

-17" Lenso Muse wheels with 215/40/R17 Nexen directionals (90% tread)

-DBA slotted from disc rotors

-Pedders Lowered springs (Lowered approx 2")

-KYB Excel-G Struts

-Noltec adjustable front camber bolts

Cosmetic:

-Satin black JDM 2 slat grille.

-Satin black bonnet stripe with White SSS decal.

-Series 1 SSS decals on rear doors.

-Chrome SSS decal on rear windscreen.

Images:

8502_01.jpg

8502_02.jpg

8502_03.jpg

8502_04.jpg

Edited by JarrodE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207979-99-n15-pulsar-sss-s2-sr20de-vic/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...