Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Another Silly Atmo Bov Question

nuclear_skyline

By nuclear_skyline,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

Hi Ya'll,

I have a stock plumb back on my s2 r33... It has a trust front mount, 11 psi of boost, high-flow turbo...

When I change in-between gears it seems to hesitate and kangaroo a little bit... Wondering if this is because the BOV isn't opening fully and the pressurised air isn't getting out properly??? The BOV does make a bit of a fluttering noise...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208081-not-another-silly-atmo-bov-question/
Share on other sites
nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
does spound like it is not opening fulling forcing the boosted air thru the turbo causing a flutter.

Yeah it kinda does... The car bucks when I change gear, so it I was worried that something is causing the airflow to be interupted

bombtrack Experienced

bombtrack

Posted
Posted

I had a similar issue although not exactly... I went to a Nissan/Jap wreckers, got me a BOV from a soon to be wrecked R33 gtst(you can pick em up in the For Sale section as well), bolted her on and presto problem solved. Maybe you can service your current BOV.

IANAM (I am not a mechanic) :(

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
what ecu do you have?

What AFM do you have?

If you have a stock one of either, I can guarantee the problem lies there

You my friend have hit the donkey on the head. I have stock AFM and ECU.... Is it the extra pressurised air in the system (due to larger turbo and front mount) causing the ECU to behave like a pork chop? If so, hows that? I'm not hitting R&R or fuel cut....

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
You my friend have hit the donkey on the head. I have stock AFM and ECU.... Is it the extra pressurised air in the system (due to larger turbo and front mount) causing the ECU to behave like a pork chop? If so, hows that? I'm not hitting R&R or fuel cut....

There you go

I had a stock AFM and powerfc and I was getting the exact same problem between gear changes etc too.

But just remember the the R&R hits at about 10+psi on the standard turbo, which means it would be 9psi \ 8psi on a Highflow because it is moving more air volume.

You really need to get some form of aftermarket management - so go and pick up yourself a Powerfc and a Z32 AFM, and 90% of your problems will go away.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how much power u making from that setup?

At the moment I am making somewhere around 190rwkw... Although I think the dyno I ran it on was reading high.... So not sure, somewhere around that though I think....

But just remember the the R&R hits at about 10+psi on the standard turbo, which means it would be 9psi \ 8psi on a Highflow because it is moving more air volume.

I hit for some reason R&R about 12psi... Well at least I hit MORE R&R at that stage.... The car seems ok atm...

I am planning on putting a GReddy EMU in within the next couple of months.... Hopefully that will let me finish off the engine mods for the time being and go about my way with the suspension...

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will get ECU!!!! I PROMISE!!!! Dont quite get how that is causing the air to bounce around though... Surely it is a mechanical issue rather then a tuning issue... THOUGH - I know there are issues caused by having mods and no ECU and that I'm sure I have some of them, dont understand how it would be casuing this issue

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

will drop it this afternoon... Heres a question then: If I drop it back, and it is presently R&Ring, will I immediately notice that it isnt R&Ring? Or does it take time for the ECU to learn?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...