Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Consumption.

dyken

By dyken,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dyken Proficient

dyken

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have you tested your o2's? you can do it using a voltmeter or using consult/datascan. you just need to make sure they're nice and responsive and that the voltage output should sweep from low to high about once a second. datascan or consult is easiest coz it will just display the voltage output for you. just make sure your car is at operating temp and you'll need to rev to about 2000rpm when you're measuring the voltages.

yea freind of mine hsa consult but he is currently at albury he should be back in bout 2 weeks il run the car thorugh that then. but it seems to be ok now, have to wait and run a full tank first to see.

he also has a NA zed :P

  • 3 weeks later...
OoskylineoO Experienced

OoskylineoO

Posted
Posted (edited)

how many o2 sensors need to be changed?, there that 1 that goes into extractors and another that goes into cat. change BOTH, or just the 1 that goes into extractors?!

Edited by OoskylineoO
Cougar Apprentice

Cougar

Posted
Posted
how many o2 sensors need to be changed?, there that 1 that goes into extractors and another that goes into cat. change BOTH, or just the 1 that goes into extractors?!

There's only one O2 sensor (in the extractors), the one down near the cat is an exhaust temp sensor.

check out Kudos in the trader section for good cheap O2 sensors

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
There's only one O2 sensor (in the extractors), the one down near the cat is an exhaust temp sensor.

check out Kudos in the trader section for good cheap O2 sensors

I do not believe the sensor near the cat relates to how much fuel you use, I run my car without this sensor and it has no issues.

I also believe its a temperature sensor, not an O2 sensor....

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

im confused, how come it seems like the more i put my foot down, the better fuel econ it is??

the for past month, i been driving like a grandma and my car drank 10.8 - 11.2L/100km

but last week, i was having some fun in the car, and the car only needed 10.2L/100km.

can any1 tell me why?... and is it true that it saves petrol if you change gear at about 2000 revs?

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
too many variables for such a small difference.

are you measuring ambient temperatures while you're doing this?

the quality of the fuel?

how did you calculate the fuel usage?

for the whole time, i been putting in V Power.

i calculated by L of petrol divide by mileage, thats right...isnt it?...

  • 5 months later...
williamgeorge Newbie

williamgeorge

Posted
Posted

The draft Fuel Consumption Information Rule proposes that importers of light vehicles provide accurate and reliable fuel consumption information and seeks to clarify how this information is collected.

----------------------

williamgeorge

Used Cars

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...