Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was behind an R32 (had rear GTR badge) on roe hwy and both lanes had traffic in them so me and the 32 couldnt pass, as soon as the car in the right lane moved into the left lane the 32 started to speed up, i noticed black puffs of smoke coming out his exhaust when he sped up. He then slammed his breaks on and swerved off the road i look back and there's like 3 meter high flames coming out of the exhaust and up the back of the car... I kept driving because i had my gf's ball to go to otherwise i would have stopped and helped.. Poor guy :D

Edited by rickytan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208526-r32-gtr-caught-fire/
Share on other sites

k cool jus wonderin what colour as i jus sold my gtr friday nite

and tha owner lives up roe hwy way

poor bloke that would freak me out flames out tha exaust are good but not that intense

Yeah ive seen flames come out the exhaust before but never out the exhaust and up the back of the car lol there would have been paint damage for sure. Curious to what happened to his car..

That wouldn't have been cool. It reminds me when Tommo's old 31 caught fire at the Zig Zags. We could all smell it, it had popped the dip stick out and caught fire. Thankfully Mike (with a Commodore) had a fire extinguisher to put it out. Reminds me I must get one, I don't think any car should be on the road without one anymore!

only way i can think of that happening is bad ignition and a hot exhaust or pretty serious valve overlap..

lawl @ that rx7 picture, i sat at the lights behind a yellow rx7 in the hills and it was pouring out flames though a dumper exhaust onto the ground in a stationary position and when he backed off. it was insane, just kept coming!

Edited by BANGN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...