Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum just need to ask a few questions about the topic as I have searched but still just a little confused. Ok as the topic states I want to put a remapped rb20 ecu into my 95 r33. Cant afford a pfc so going the cheaper route. What I want to kno is that like the series 2 I do not see an igniter pack at the back of my engine just a plug( no black box ). Does this mean I will have to get an igniter pack in order for the rb20 ecu to b able to work with my car if so how to i integrate it into the system, also do I use the series 2 ecu diagram in order to see what needs rewiring? I also know that the rb20 ecu doesn't have vct control and I was looking on the hks site and saw two items, the rev ad and the rpm signal level converter, I wanted to know which of the two is suited to run the vct or if there is a cheaper alternative I can go with. Thanks for all the help.

hey from what i understand from your post you want to put an igniter on a series 2 engine? if so wont you have to change the coilpacks as well?

Thats what I am asking I don't know. It is not really a series 2 engine it's a 1.5 doesn't have the igniter pack, but has the two plugs on the tps with just one really connected. I don't want to put an igniter pack there just WANT to make sure what it is I have to do so when I get my list of parts and replace the ecu I don't hit a wall cus I left a part out. If its a straight swap I am all for it but if I have to make a few mods I just want to kno what they are, I already kno about the vct have that covered now its just if I wil have to make any more mods or is it just a straight swap.

do another search.

If you use the rb20 ecu you will have to add a external device to trigger the VCT. if you dont you will lose down low power.

Yea I Know. What I wanted to know was are there any other mods I will have to do or is it a straight swap? Will I have to rewire anything on the ecu or is it just a plug in and everything works except the VCT of course?

IIRC rb20 ecu is virtually straight plugin for rb25 minus vct.

To control vct, and old trick I know of is to use a modified shift light (usually works out cheaper) that triggers the vct solenoid instead of shift light, on most units it also means you can adjust when it kicks in.

Shouldn't need to worry about the ignition system, both have external igniters, ones at the back of the head, the other is in the coils. You can get a kit from jaycar to control the vct(you may need two of them, one to swith on, one to swith off) Im pretty sure you need to swap two injector wires, as they are wired in a different order. What remap are you going to run?

just to clarify once again

you dont need to swap any wires or do any mods to anything EXCEPT have an external VCT controller (should you wish to run it.. i didnt) and the rb20 ecu will work once its mapped.

Ok good one other question if I was to go the z32 ecu route would a turbo or non-turbo ecu matter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...