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Make: Nissan Stagea Autech 260RS

Model: Stagea Autech 260RS

Milage: 115,000

Transmission: 5 speed Manual

Colour: Pearl white

Location: NT

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? Yes

Currently registered? Yes

Price: $40,000

Contact: PM

Times up, missus wants a Prius. Hell of a way to reduce my carbon footprint.

97 mod. Excellent condition. Motor completely rebuilt at 100,000kms.

Engine.

RB26DETT

K&N pods

Z32 AFMs

N1 Group A turbos (RS581's)

TuneAgent manifolds

HKS dumps

Nismo front pipes

Trust PE2 exhaust

Blitz FMIC 102mm

Just Jap radiator

Greddy top pipe (rad)

N1 water pump

N1 oil pump

Oil catchcan

Tomei HG

CP pistons

REV I beam rods

Fully rebuilt bottom to top

New valves, stem seals etc

Minor head work

Tomei 264 cams

OK Giken cam gears

Greddy timing belt

Greddy timing cover

Relocated oil filter

Oil cooler

Tomei sump baffles

Sard 700cc injectors

Greddy rail

FPR

Bosch 044 pump

Splitfire coils

NOS heat plugs

Direct clutch twin plate (very heavy)

RS*R coil overs

Brembos with Ferodo pads

DBA5000 slotted rotors with gold hats (replacement rotors are cheap!)

BEO gold 17"

Greddy oil pressure guage (elec)

Greddy boost guage (elec)

Greddy pillar mount for the above

PowerFC

Greddy ProfecB Spec2

Blitz FATT timer

JVC HU with 3.5" screen

Im not sure if I have forgotten anything.

Car has run 11.9 in Darwin, unprepped track, street tyres at 35psi and 30deg heat (wind was blowing the wrong way too).

500.9rwhp, once again 30deg at 22psi. (wind was ok this time).

Regularly serviced, rarely driven as I have a Lib GTB wagon for work and the missus wants a Prius.

Great fun to drive, attracts very little attention. Manages to scare most people silly.

PM me for any questions.

Cheers

Ken

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That is a sexy list!!! good luck with the sale and the errrr prius!

Guys picture doing those mods to a R33GTR and what do you get? An awesome vehicle!! this one has bootspace!

free bump.

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RBNT, i already have a manual S2 stagea (neoRB25DET) and i can vouch for the cost of setting up something simpler than you have.

i can also vouch for how good these cars are when they have been set up with this much care.

this is a bargain and i would be thrilled to be in the market right now.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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