Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Getting a 3" Split Dump, Hi Flow Cat and 3" Catback with 4" or 5" Output/Muffler.....its stainless steel aswell if that has any effect....

Will this system be overly loud or does it depend on who makes the system?

I cant see how one from Kakimoto or HKS or X Force or whatever can be any louder when they are the exact same size etc.....

So can anyone let me know or answer my question/query and thought....

Cheers

Matt

Edited by WOG BOY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208872-exhaust-loudnessany-ideas/
Share on other sites

Getting a 3" Split Dump, Hi Flow Cat and 3" Catback with 4" or 5" Output/Muffler.....

Will this system be overly loud or does it depend on who makes the system?

I cant see how one from Kakimoto or HKS or X Force or whatever can be any louder when they are the exact same size etc.....

So can anyone let me know or answer my question/query and thought....

Cheers

Matt

I have a full 3" system on my 34 and it is legal db.... Its really quiet :P

In reality that question cannot be answered because there are quite a few different muffler designs (internal design) out there...

I run a 3.5" to the cat. 3" inch cat, 3" resonator and 3" rear muffler with twin 2" outlets

plus a 2 1/4" screamer** pipe off external gate going into a 2 1/4" straight through centre chamber muffler which dumps under the car just behind gear box...

**I call it a 'moaner pipe'... :P

Its very legal db until waste gate opens and then would be just slightly over but sounds like a V12...

It really depends on what brand and design of muffler and resonator you use...

noise will depend on things like wall thickness of metal aswell as type of metal. Different mufflers have differnt internal designes which will either muffle more or less than others. Best to go with high quality mufflers as they usually flow better and muffle more

I think the cat is important too. Something cheap and restrictive (like my current cat :thumbsup: ) keeps it quiet. My mate has an X-Force turbo back exhaust and in the passenger seat (above the cat) it sounds like an aeroplane.

My guess is the cat really affects the tone because it's the first restriction from the turbo.

Look into a quality (metal) cat is my 2c

My R33 N/A 4 door series one sounds great.

Great general driving sound, no drone, and when the foot hits the floor its sounds crisp and strong.....lovin it!!

Ohhhh setup was conpleted at AAA Exhaust in Adelaide

2 1/4 inch from cat back to a 6" cannon muffler

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_2523.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_2533.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_2524.jpg

EMZ

Quiet often a stock exhaust sounds way better than the drony piece of shit tin cans that some bolt on.

I laugh every time I see some NA lancer or Mirage or Corolla or even a NA skyline/supra with a shitty canon up its arse.. they sound so loud and crap its embarassing and annoying.

Edited by Modena
Yeah canon mufflers suck... they are droiny and annoying.

I am seeing alot of cars with twin canon muffler set up... less noisy.

Any pics mate?

I've been looking like mad for a twin pipe system...

As far as I can tell, no one makes such a system for Skylines...

Even just a twin muffler trick, I've not found a thing...

Any pics mate?

I've been looking like mad for a twin pipe system...

As far as I can tell, no one makes such a system for Skylines...

Even just a twin muffler trick, I've not found a thing...

jjrdualexhs13.jpg

But they are for 200sx. I havent seen one for Skylines either unles its a custom job... been to Newcastle recently and saw many Skylines there with this set up.

If by chance you are buying an HKS system such as Silent Hi Power it should be fine. I can't recommend it high enough. I have it on my R34GTT and it is quiet at idle and has a beautiful note and volume under decent load.

Sorry, have no idea about twin systems for Skyrines.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...