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Hey guys and girls...

Ill be buying my first skyline soon and well i really dont wanna buy a mellon, this is a mod list coming from a R33 seriouse 1.5 1995 which makes 265rwkw (i dont know at what boost i havent been told...but i think it would be at 20ish PSI). the build has been done twice through 2 different machanics and 2 different owners. The second machanic told me that when he pulled down the engine the rods were bent/twisted, rings were gone, and the head was gone, although he told me he used some parts from the first build such as the pistons, turbo, and ecu, i have been told the pistons did have some scrtaches on them but they are fine?!?!?!.

Anyway i wanna buy a good reliable R33 which isnt going to be a money pit and so far the owner has been really good and upfront about everything but my machanic fears for the worst but he hasnt taken a look at the car as yet.

So can any1 tell me if this list is any good?

and

what to ask when getting the car cheacked out to make sure i dont have any problems with it?

Anyway even if i do get it get it i gotta poor $700 into it to get the gearbox oil changed, injecters cleaned and new coilpacks (the car was missing fireing and the machanic from the second build told me that the coilpacks were the problem so they need to be changed and injecter clean is needed(its ment to be a precaution?!?!?), as for the gearbox it sometimes crunchs form 3rd to 2nd, my machanic told me that it might be a money but he's got to take a look at it). i just wanna know from a 3rd persons ie you guys if this car is any good... here is the mod list:

New GTR rods

o High flowed turbo rebuilt

o Steel head gasket

o ACL race series bearings

o Reconditioned head

• ACL forged pistons

• After market injectors

• FMIC

• Oil catch can

• Turbosmart type3 blow off valve

• N1 oil pump

• N1 water pump

• Splitfire coils

• Aftermarket fuel pump

• Aftermarket fuel regulator

• K&N POD filter and cold air box

• Blitz Dual Solinoid boost controller

• Recently rebuilt gearbox

• Exedy single plate clutch

• 3” exhaust from cat-back to 5Zigen tip

• Microtech ECU

• Adjustable exhaust cam gear

PLEASE HELP ME I WANT A GOOD CLEAN SKYLINE THAT I CAN START TO MOD AND WONT BE A MONEY PIT...

Regards Vlad (Vic)

cheap, reliable,fast

Pick only two. You get the picture.

You buy a modified fast skyline thats reliable = money

You buy a cheaply modified fast skyline = broken bits later = money pit.

You buy an unmodified stock skyline = reliable & not a money pit (till you start modifications that is).

Performance cars are a money pit, thats life. :)

Edited by rev210
Its that old saying:

If its fast and reliable---Its not cheap.

If its cheap and fast---Its not reliable.

If its cheap and reliable---Its not fast.

Guys thanks for the prverbs...lol, but i wanna know if the list is any good?

and

if the car osunds like a money pit if it already had to get 2 different builds and stuff has to get changed on it already???

thanxs Vic

the rebuilds could be from poor tuning, no matter how tough you build an engine if it aint tuned right its gonna pack it in.. maybe get a another mechanic to check it out one that doesnt have history n a non bias decision.. all comes down to how much your paying aswell

but yes money pit no matter what sooner you realise it the better it gets ahhaa

Hey guys and girls...

Ill be buying my first skyline soon and well i really dont wanna buy a mellon, this is a mod list coming from a R33 seriouse 1.5 1995 which makes 265rwkw (i dont know at what boost i havent been told...but i think it would be at 20ish PSI). the build has been done twice through 2 different machanics and 2 different owners. The second machanic told me that when he pulled down the engine the rods were bent/twisted, rings were gone, and the head was gone, although he told me he used some parts from the first build such as the pistons, turbo, and ecu, i have been told the pistons did have some scrtaches on them but they are fine?!?!?!.

Anyway i wanna buy a good reliable R33 which isnt going to be a money pit and so far the owner has been really good and upfront about everything but my machanic fears for the worst but he hasnt taken a look at the car as yet.

So can any1 tell me if this list is any good?

and

what to ask when getting the car cheacked out to make sure i dont have any problems with it?

Anyway even if i do get it get it i gotta poor $700 into it to get the gearbox oil changed, injecters cleaned and new coilpacks (the car was missing fireing and the machanic from the second build told me that the coilpacks were the problem so they need to be changed and injecter clean is needed(its ment to be a precaution?!?!?), as for the gearbox it sometimes crunchs form 3rd to 2nd, my machanic told me that it might be a money but he's got to take a look at it). i just wanna know from a 3rd persons ie you guys if this car is any good... here is the mod list:

New GTR rods

o High flowed turbo rebuilt

o Steel head gasket

o ACL race series bearings

o Reconditioned head

• ACL forged pistons

• After market injectors

• FMIC

• Oil catch can

• Turbosmart type3 blow off valve

• N1 oil pump

• N1 water pump

• Splitfire coils

• Aftermarket fuel pump

• Aftermarket fuel regulator

• K&N POD filter and cold air box

• Blitz Dual Solinoid boost controller

• Recently rebuilt gearbox

• Exedy single plate clutch

• 3” exhaust from cat-back to 5Zigen tip

• Microtech ECU

• Adjustable exhaust cam gear

PLEASE HELP ME I WANT A GOOD CLEAN SKYLINE THAT I CAN START TO MOD AND WONT BE A MONEY PIT...

Regards Vlad (Vic)

Why the hell would you even consider buying a car like this, alarm bells should be going off left right and center. Unless the car is insanely cheap and you can offset the cost of a cheap buy price with an expensive repair price, then here's some things to look at.

* Gear box doesn't sound good, sounds like the syncro is going. Gearbox replacement/rebulids/labour is expensive.

* Car has had two rebuilds, why? Sounds like the first mechanic did not have a clue or the car had been raped to a point where it broke (sounds like the case with the gearbox)

* You are going to be buying a car that isn't working.. replacing coilpacks / servicing = you pooring money into the car straight away, thats not a good start?

* On the power the motor is making with the highflow, why did the motor need a rebuild, for reliablity or fixing a raped broken car?

* I'd have the car checked out by your mechanic, not his.. i'd find out as much as i could and then get a good mechanic with an independant unbiased oppinion to do a full check; compression/leakdown/undercar/roadworthy, this could save you thousands..

Thats why i would do in this situation, buying a car that has had the life raped out it and be an endless money pit that can easily kill a pasion for cars, though i could be wrong about everything with the car, hence taking to an expert and finding out.

Hope that helps

Dont mean to hijack the thread but i noticed you are from the A.C.T. If you are interested I live in canberra and will be selling my car at the end of this month after having a major service including the 100,000km service, a new clutch, new fluids, all belts, new filters etc. It is completly stock (excluding exhaust, 3" HKS super silent model) and has always been reliable to me as a daily driver. First Australian owner (bought from private importer in Melbourne Sept 06 at 74,000km, now at 98,000km) and serviced every 5,000km

Again, didnt mean to hijack, just came across this thread and thought i'd throw it out there :laugh:

On topic though, if you want to save money then buy a car that is already modified. If you want a blank canvas to create what YOU want, buy a stocker. That car looks really worn out, i'd say avoid and keep looking.

Mate, the only problem that I can see is with you.

You're making the single biggest mistake you can possibly make when buying a car - you are looking to convince yourself that you *should* buy it.

When inspecting cars, you should find a car that suits what you want, then pour over it trying to find reasons *not* to buy it. If you find very few good reasons not to, thats the car for you.

I can tell you now, you need to forget this car, walk away right now and youll be happier in the long run. This car sounds like trouble, and you're looking to a forum to find someone who will tell you that it will be ok to buy it. You can be sure that you'll find more things wrong with a car *after* you buy it, and it sounds like you've already found a few things wrong with this one...

Like I said, forget this car and approach the next one with a fresh outlook. You've already said what you want, i quote 'PLEASE HELP ME I WANT A GOOD CLEAN SKYLINE THAT I CAN START TO MOD AND WONT BE A MONEY PIT...'

So theres no point trying to justify buying a largely molested car with a questionable history and some known issues that you need to fix from the get go.

Walk away from this car, and actually try and find cars that fit what you want.

A clean, low km, relatively stock car (maybe some mild work like exhaust/FMIC/suspension to get you started) sounds far more like what you want.

That way it only becomes a money pit (which I GUARANTEE you it will :laugh: ) when you want it to. IE you only need to spend money on it when you choose to, not because the engine/gearbox have let go on you.

Edited by swanny180
Mate, the only problem that I can see is with you.

You're making the single biggest mistake you can possibly make when buying a car - you are looking to convince yourself that you *should* buy it.

When inspecting cars, you should find a car that suits what you want, then pour over it trying to find reasons *not* to buy it. If you find very few good reasons not to, thats the car for you.

I can tell you now, you need to forget this car, walk away right now and youll be happier in the long run. This car sounds like trouble, and you're looking to a forum to find someone who will tell you that it will be ok to buy it. You can be sure that you'll find more things wrong with a car *after* you buy it, and it sounds like you've already found a few things wrong with this one...

Like I said, forget this car and approach the next one with a fresh outlook. You've already said what you want, i quote 'PLEASE HELP ME I WANT A GOOD CLEAN SKYLINE THAT I CAN START TO MOD AND WONT BE A MONEY PIT...'

So theres no point trying to justify buying a largely molested car with a questionable history and some known issues that you need to fix from the get go.

Walk away from this car, and actually try and find cars that fit what you want.

A clean, low km, relatively stock car (maybe some mild work like exhaust/FMIC/suspension to get you started) sounds far more like what you want.

That way it only becomes a money pit (which I GUARANTEE you it will :D ) when you want it to. IE you only need to spend money on it when you choose to, not because the engine/gearbox have let go on you.

I would like to thank you honestly you have been spot with all your assumptions, ie im looking for some1 to tell me that the car will be aight. well ill book it in for testing early this week to see what results it gets..

ill let every1 know what happens but thnk you to every1 that put input into this thread i realy appriciate it.

thank you all

regards Vic

Hey guys and girls...

Ill be buying my first skyline soon and well i really dont wanna buy a mellon, this is a mod list coming from a R33 seriouse 1.5 1995 which makes 265rwkw (i dont know at what boost i havent been told...but i think it would be at 20ish PSI). the build has been done twice through 2 different machanics and 2 different owners. The second machanic told me that when he pulled down the engine the rods were bent/twisted, rings were gone, and the head was gone, although he told me he used some parts from the first build such as the pistons, turbo, and ecu, i have been told the pistons did have some scrtaches on them but they are fine?!?!?!.

Anyway i wanna buy a good reliable R33 which isnt going to be a money pit and so far the owner has been really good and upfront about everything but my machanic fears for the worst but he hasnt taken a look at the car as yet.

So can any1 tell me if this list is any good?

and

what to ask when getting the car cheacked out to make sure i dont have any problems with it?

Anyway even if i do get it get it i gotta poor $700 into it to get the gearbox oil changed, injecters cleaned and new coilpacks (the car was missing fireing and the machanic from the second build told me that the coilpacks were the problem so they need to be changed and injecter clean is needed(its ment to be a precaution?!?!?), as for the gearbox it sometimes crunchs form 3rd to 2nd, my machanic told me that it might be a money but he's got to take a look at it). i just wanna know from a 3rd persons ie you guys if this car is any good... here is the mod list:

New GTR rods

o High flowed turbo rebuilt

o Steel head gasket

o ACL race series bearings

o Reconditioned head

• ACL forged pistons

• After market injectors

• FMIC

• Oil catch can

• Turbosmart type3 blow off valve

• N1 oil pump

• N1 water pump

• Splitfire coils

• Aftermarket fuel pump

• Aftermarket fuel regulator

• K&N POD filter and cold air box

• Blitz Dual Solinoid boost controller

• Recently rebuilt gearbox

• Exedy single plate clutch

• 3” exhaust from cat-back to 5Zigen tip

• Microtech ECU

• Adjustable exhaust cam gear

PLEASE HELP ME I WANT A GOOD CLEAN SKYLINE THAT I CAN START TO MOD AND WONT BE A MONEY PIT...

Regards Vlad (Vic)

mate sounds like a resonable combo but just check thickness of head gasket and what boost presure

it has been running and then go from there. the thicker the head gasket the more boost you can run with out hurting anything

internally.(thats providing you have good external bits too) :D

Ask for the reciepts, esp. for the gearbox, you need to see what their definition of rebuilt is. Also the highflow, head, GTR rods [make sure they are GTR and are new] etc.

Ask what rebore it is on, and if the crank has been done.

And get more detail on the injectors, FMIC etc You need to know brands and sizes.

If its such a good thing, why is it only a 3" from the cat back?

Ask for the reciepts, esp. for the gearbox, you need to see what their definition of rebuilt is. Also the highflow, head, GTR rods [make sure they are GTR and are new] etc.

Ask what rebore it is on, and if the crank has been done.

And get more detail on the injectors, FMIC etc You need to know brands and sizes.

If its such a good thing, why is it only a 3" from the cat back?

from what i understand the block wasn't rebored form the first build, or it might of been and the second machanic used bigger piston rings. i have been told that the machanic form the second build used his old GTR rods(but it cant be confirmed), ill try and get brand names, and sizes but the mod list is a copy past from what owner has given me.

this caR is like one of 'those' girls you meet in a club when your drunk ...

you know its a bad idea and you should pack your d**k up and f**k off home so you don't regret it in the morning, but some how you manage to tell yourself its ok and go for it anyway :D

my 2 c ...

Edited by BLK33T
from what i understand the block wasn't rebored form the first build, or it might of been and the second machanic used bigger piston rings. i have been told that the machanic form the second build used his old GTR rods(but it cant be confirmed), ill try and get brand names, and sizes but the mod list is a copy past from what owner has given me.

If he wants to sell it, he'll find out!!!!

'Old' GTR rods are OK if they have been tested [magnaflux, x-ray etc], but get the test results. Don't believe it if he says he didn't keep the results - believe it if he says they didn't do it, then run.............

sounds dodgey...

two rebuilds already, 265rwkw and only a catback with a hiflow, sounds like it has been flogged...

start thinking about the condition of the suspension as well its probably on its last legs, check in the rear wheel well for melted rubber...

run away from this one... you can easily find something better

How much do they want for it?

personally mate, i would reccomend that u buy a stock skyline and do it up urself....

that way i know it hasnt been thrashed adn u know what parts are goin on, when and how much its worth to u!

buy a stocko then build it up.....thats what im doin and i reckon its the best way to do it....i dunno what the others on here think, but yeah...just my suggestion!

^^ stock lines can still have been thrashed ... best bet is to buy one from a reputable shop and import exactly what you want ...

pay a little bits more and you'll be so much more happy in the long run

if the car has a dodgey history and your not exactly sure what has been done to it walk away now and save yourself some trouble in the long run

also don't be affraid to buy a modded skyline but just make sure whomever you buy it from has kept records of the build and maintenance etc etc...

there is also a good section in last month HPI about choosing a skyline ...

take your time and look around and you will be much happier in the end :D

hahahahaa took me a few seconds to get that, bit slow today.. i like it! lol im gona have to use that one :D

cheap, reliable,fast

Pick only two. You get the picture.

You buy a modified fast skyline thats reliable = money

You buy a cheaply modified fast skyline = broken bits later = money pit.

You buy an unmodified stock skyline = reliable & not a money pit (till you start modifications that is).

Performance cars are a money pit, thats life. :)

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The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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