Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

b] Make:[/b] 2000 Suzuki

Model: Hayabusa

Milage: 32***ks

Transmission: manual

Colour: red/black

Location: Brisbane

Complied? NO

RWC supplied? Maybe

Currently registered? YES

Price: $17,000 ono

Contact: Me via pm or here

Comments / Modifications: Turbo

Images: Yes

Like all the above reads I am trying to sell a Turbo Suzuki Hayabusa it make 247 RWHP at the moment on 8lbs of boost it is registered at the moment and i still ride it when i get the chance

I am looking for a good clean swap for a R33 2 door turbo or even a R32 2 Door turbo stock would be ok but would prefer over 300 RWHP

Spotters fee of $200 for anyone that helps me sell this bike

let me know if anyone is interested I have it also listed on Boost Cruisin Site

Edited by Xhiler8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209537-swaps-or-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

which bike is the turbo, blue one or red one as there are two different bikes in your pics.

They are both cause its the same bike it started out with 00 blue/ silver Fairings and then I swapped them for red / black 99 fairings cause i always loved the red / black colour so now the bike is Red/Black

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209537-swaps-or-sale/#findComment-3708291
Share on other sites

People are probably interested.

But the sane part of their brain tells them its too much bike for one man.

Good luck with the sale. I've always wanted a 9 second bike...

you know you probobly are very right but the thing is it rides like a stocker until you want to use the power it has and as for 9sec i reckon with the right rider it has 8's they will be high 8's but it is capable of 8's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209537-swaps-or-sale/#findComment-3738287
Share on other sites

They are both cause its the same bike it started out with 00 blue/ silver Fairings and then I swapped them for red / black 99 fairings cause i always loved the red / black colour so now the bike is Red/Black

Good move on the colours.

unfortunatly my 33gtst is not worth enough for a straight swap otherwise I would not even need to think it through.

gl with the sale. free bump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209537-swaps-or-sale/#findComment-3749620
Share on other sites

Good move on the colours.

unfortunatly my 33gtst is not worth enough for a straight swap otherwise I would not even need to think it through.

gl with the sale. free bump.

send me some pics of ya R33 we might be able to work something out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209537-swaps-or-sale/#findComment-3749750
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...