Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Congrats on the purchase, but sadly this is the worst looking skyline made imo :D The coupes look better though but i just think nissan made a boo boo lol.

That said we all have different tastes! Its definitely a nice example, that interior shot looks like it would in the catalogue!

Edited by Granthem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209601-v35-sedan-350gt/#findComment-3706795
Share on other sites

Congrats on the purchase, but sadly this is the worst looking skyline made imo :P The coupes look better though but i just think nissan made a boo boo lol.

That said we all have different tastes! Its definitely a nice example, that interior shot looks like it would in the catalogue!

Looks are personal preference...took me a while to get used to it but after checking out the guys in the US forum www.g35driver.com there are definately some really hot sedans in there:

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207514

After owning the 34 for 3 years....its time for a change :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209601-v35-sedan-350gt/#findComment-3708081
Share on other sites

Nice one... That's the 2nd series with different interior, right?

Did you buy it with original japanese battery still on the car?

cos mine was flat and dead. and I finally found a local one that would fit - Century Battery NS60LS

The 350Z one looks likely won't fit cos it's too wide.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209601-v35-sedan-350gt/#findComment-3708746
Share on other sites

Its actually a 12/04 model but a series 2 with all the upgraded interior trim, frontbar etc...in the US its classed as an 05/06 model.

Factory 17s unfortunately which will soon change...:)

With the updated interior trim does the transmission lever slides to the side to let you manually select up / down shift (tiptronic), or do you get a steering wheel paddle shift?

It is an auto sedan, right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209601-v35-sedan-350gt/#findComment-3729876
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...