Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/girls.

Finally got to test drive my R32 GTR the other day and noticed the Torque readings from the ATTESA a bit different from what I remember them to be from other GTR's I have driven.

The car is fairly stock and according to the gauge (if it is correct), it's running 6psi of boost.

So the torque gauge goes from 0-10-50kg?

Going flat stick on a straight road, the needle barely moves off 0kg.

Giving it some into a corner and I think I barely managed 10kg.

I launched the car @ 4,500rpm slipping the clutch out quickly. Broke traction for a brief moment then when it hooked up, the car bogged down.

Silly me, I was all exicted and forgot to keep my eye on the torque gauge. But does this sound normal?

Breaking Traction? With such little power?

The other GTR's I drove many years ago would give a reading on the torque gauge from just accelerating hard on a straight. Granted they all had a bit more power (190-220KW @ all 4).

And you could really feel the front tyres grab hold of the road.

Mine feels really strange.

I'm hoping it's lack of power + really bad tyres?

So could anyone give me some typical readings in typical situations?

Thank you.

Edited by nigs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209652-attesa-typical-readings/
Share on other sites

hey mate i got a 93 R32 GTS4 which has the attesa likes urs..maybe urs is a bit better coz urs is a gtr but i know when im boostin it in a straight line the guage does go up a bit. and when i launch it like u say, slippin the clutch a lil bit i dnt know if i ge loss of traction but off i go lol all i got is 3" catback exhasut, fmic and pod

hope this helps buddy

My GT-R will only go a tiny bit past the 10kg-m and thats giving it to it on a wet road up a hill. This could depend on tyres. Bosst is a little low, mine used to run approx 10psi, and its only got a cat back exhaust. If you want a good check that everything in the traction department is 'hooking up ok', find an empty flat road somewhere, dial up 6 grand and hold it steady at 6 grand, then drop the clutch. You should only get a tiny amount of wheelspin if any. This is what I was doing at a drag day and it was launching really really well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...