Jump to content
SAU Community

Tire...: )


Pva_Glue
 Share

Recommended Posts

As many of you would know from last cruise I need two thing on my car

my baby needs new sets of tires hehheh :P

and more will power to stop engaging my 4WD system

so How much does it cost? what size etc...

I think I have 16" stock rim and YOKOHAMA 205 I think...

any input will be good or know anyone owns tire shop?

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey Joe u thought about putting bigger tires on the back then on the front.

So if u can get 2 good tyres put em on the front and put new ones on the back till u "wear em in" :burnout: then do it again:)

Hmm maybe this is me thinking out loud:confused: But im pretty sure u can put wider tires on stock rims. Gradenko did it:uh-huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boostzor, i don't think ATESSA likes having different sized tires front and rear, it wants identical widths all the way around.

I just found out today that I need new tires as well (rears). Tire place I was at (Ian Diffen Canning Vale) had 2nd hand tires to suit out rims for $35 each. Might want to try that pva, if half tread is all you need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh he does i think they were fm109's or sumfin.

ask gradenko he would know 4 sure.

*ahem* no rush Joe but u wouldnt happen to have that vid on a tape or something that i can borrow to copy :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

so is Ian diff cannington have $30 tire or what?

Jesus Joe, that was weeks ago... they may have them still but if they don't, plenty of other tyre joints sell 2nd hand rubber. Ring around.

Don't you think you should replace them soon? If nothing, it'll save you from a yellow sticker and a $75 fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha :bahaha:

Joe, those tyres you have on are waaaaaaay to bald, i swear those front tyres have no corners on them and are smooth. I saw them months ago and needed changing then, lol. Its no wonder it gets so sideways around roundabouts, in the dry. It's not worth risking it, especially when you need those tyres for braking. Unless you can find some half decent 2nd hand rubber, i say fork out for some new tyres :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

insurance doesnt cover you if crash with non-australian spec tyres, its considered as unroadworthy

joe if you wonah be stingy just go out at night and take the tyres out of the tyre shops bins (yes this has been done before) but if i were you id just buy some 205s they cant be that expensive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
    • Yep PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol), my 'go to' plastic, printed to precisely how long I wanted 🙂, about a finger length ha ha. I would usually grind up something but since I've got the printer I thought I might give it a try and it worked beautifully ^_^b So with regards to torque, there's a little bit of science behind the orientation of the print, fill density, fill pattern and number of external perimeters which can increase the strength dramatically, but you still need to work within the constraints of the material and the orientation of the model for sure. I certainly wouldn't be making a breaker bar out of plastic, but this little bugger is very strong for it's size that's for sure.
    • This is the part I was unprepared for. I mean, thinking about it now, the first day I collected my car from the importer someone posted a photo of it on the highway to an online JDM page which my friend then sent me. I drove straight to the office to pick up some things and was immediately swarmed by about ten college kids -  "how much power" "why no wing" etc. The next couple times I went out I didn't really notice anything, there was a "why no wing" at a service area at some point. Then during the fourth time out driving at the Nurburgring I got the "do a drift" - the bastard cut it out in this clip. The title in itself is a red flag. As you may have guessed, I am not a fan of the attention. This leads me to wondering what to do with the car in the future; I'll see how this year goes and it may be garaged, which it mostly is already, or maybe even sent back to Japan  to also be garaged and driven occasionally on visits. Fortunately my daily is as interesting as drying paint.   
×
×
  • Create New...