Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at getting a recently-imported R33 from a dealer in VIC. According to them, the car is complied and has a RWC.

What kind of registration costs am I look at to get this car driving? I've been checking the VICRoads site and have come up with more than enough information to utterly confuse me.

For example, there is a section relating to the Registration of an imported vehicle.

I'm not sure how much of this page, if any, applies to me as it details Import approval and compliance, etc (things that have already been done).

To make things even less clear, the Buying and Selling section indicates that a car can usually only be sold in one of two ways: with an RWC or without an RWC (though the vehicle would have no plates and NOT be registered). Given that the car does have an RWC (for now), is it likely that the car is actually already registered in AU?

If the car IS registered, would that mean a (relatively) simple Vehicle Registration Transfer form need only be completed and the Transfer Fee's paid?

If NOT registered, am I likely to have to go through the full Initial Registration process (appointments, inspections, registrations, Traffic Accident Charges, insurance duty, number plates and stamp duty)?

Any help would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209753-registration-questions-vic/
Share on other sites

You need a RWC to get the car registered but having a RWC doesn't mean the car is automatically registered. Although a dealer can sell a car without rego or RWC, if they have a RWC then it can either be registered or unregistered, so this car has obviously been complied and had a roadworthy inspection but not been registered yet.

All you need to do is take all of the paperwork from compliance, roadworthy and purchase documents to VicRoads (after making a rego appointment) and it will be a simple 20 minute process to get it on the road. The costs should be around $475 to $580 for the rego itself depending on your postcode, plus a few $$ for licence plate fees, etc (average around $550 all up roughly) and then $8 per $200 (basically 4%) of the cars value for stamp duty.

Assuming the car is $10,000 then it would be roughly $550 for rego costs and $400 for stamp duty ... if the car was $12,000 then it would be around $550 plus $480 ... and so on.

I would have assumed that the dealer selling the car would have arranged rego for you so you could just come and collect the car afterwards, even if they added the costs on top of the price?

yeah if you're buying from a dealer use one of the few advantages that they give - get them to do all the paperwork for you!

when i bought my V35 from a dealer i negotiated a price (including rego and stamp duty) they paid all that stuff and i siply picked up the car! they have plates already at the dealer and give you a temporary rego sticker while vicroads will send out the real one once the paperwork has gone through

The costs should be around $475 to $580 for the rego itself depending on your postcode, plus a few $ for licence plate fees, etc (average around $550 all up roughly) and then $8 per $200 (basically 4%) of the cars value for stamp duty.

Your estimates surprised me, turns out my last post was wrong! The vicroads calculator includes stamp duty so I was adding it twice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...