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By GoHashiriya · Posted
Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London. -
Hi SAU community Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane -
It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back. thanks for the reply. -
no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is. -
By TurboTapin · Posted
While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost. As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both. I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards. BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
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