Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

the ones that dont filter the most are ther HKS ones or foam element type ones. The apexi pod filter are meant to the one of the best pods around. K&N would be just after them. THe filters mentioned fitler very well...without being restrictive..unless you wanna use those ryco replacement ones (yellow) very restictive thoe they filter the best but loose preformance.

How well an air filter filters has nothing to do with the shape of it (ie, flat or pod), but the material it's made from. A lot of high-flowing pod filters are made from low density substances like foam and so they tend to not filter as well as other filters.

As already mentioned, the Apexi pod is an exception. It uses paper, but not your standard type. It's some sort of pressed paper mesh (from what I can tell, looking at mine) which supposedly lets it flow a lot better than a normal paper filter. Apparently the funnel design also helps improve flow.

Paper filters filter the best because they have the smallest holes, but the usual drawback is they flow the worst. Apexi seem to have gotten around the restriction with their design.

thanks jimx, that is the type of response i was after. I understand the concept of filtering air, i just wanted to know if anyone is aware if it is being done any better than it was 2 yrs ago. It sounds like apexi is.

are you finding much dirt getting thru?

I'm not sure how you find dirt getting through, but the inside of the filter is spotless. There is some residue on the inside of my intake, but this would be from the crank case ventillation when it was hooked up. (which it actually is again now).

There was a pod comparison on the net awhile ago, but I can't seem to find it. They tested HKS, K&N, Blitz, and Apexi, and the Apexi came through the best on both air cleanness and airflow. It was actually the reason why I decided to get one.

No, the one I read was on the gtrowners.co.uk site. It's now not working, but I believe copied elsewhere on the net. It didn't include the Sard pod either.

That review is still interesting, it'd be more interesting if I could read Japanese though!

Edit: It's excellent to see roughly the same test results of these pods from 2 different sources. The former review was the only one I'd seen and I was always dubious of the results because there was no one else to dispute it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...