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just completed my remap with toshi.

r33 gtst w/ turbo, injectors, plenum, exhaust, afm, pod, fmic etc

results are unreal, i am absolutely stoked. well worth the money.

will post up dyno graph when i get a run soon.

thanks toshi!

Hi I had Toshi do my ecu (im in Perth) I would have much rather do the road tune with him but he is in Sydney... I have a 1997 S2 AUTO r33 skyline with front mount intercooler , turbo tech boost controller running 10-11 psi, full 3" exhaust turbo back, pod with CAI, Walbro fuel pump,

The car ran ok before but since putting the remapped ECU in the cars power seems more linear and pulls right through the rev range... On the Dyno it achieved 268hp = 200rwkw and afr's were good was slightly higher than anticipated but dyno's being dyno's ...Bottom line the car runs great ..... He was very helpful to me and I did contact him a lot of times. I would highly recommend his services ..... thanks Toshi...

Hi I had Toshi do my ecu (im in Perth) I would have much rather do the road tune with him but he is in Sydney... I have a 1997 S2 AUTO r33 skyline with front mount intercooler , turbo tech boost controller running 10-11 psi, full 3" exhaust turbo back, pod with CAI, Walbro fuel pump,

The car ran ok before but since putting the remapped ECU in the cars power seems more linear and pulls right through the rev range... On the Dyno it achieved 268hp = 200rwkw and afr's were good was slightly higher than anticipated but dyno's being dyno's ...Bottom line the car runs great ..... He was very helpful to me and I did contact him a lot of times. I would highly recommend his services ..... thanks Toshi...

I meant the power was higher than anticipated ....... not afr's :-)

the 430 is good for about 220-230rwkw depending on how much boost you want to squeeze out of it. my understanding is that the 480 is good for about 250-260ish rwkw. if its not much more expensive id recommend going for the 480. that being said, my 430 is doing the job nicely at the moment, spools up quickly too, 18psi by about 3800rpm. apparently the 480 is a bit laggier.

depends what youre after i spose.

Hey Toshi,

Do you remember what power you made with the KKR430, I was thinkin bout puttin a KKR480, what do you reccommend for me to do to increase the response?

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

Hi Toshi I have a 95 GTST Skyline Sedan Auto looks like nothing has been done apart from the earthing of the duel stage boost controller.

It has a AFR meter which says it is lean most of the time but chews does like 330km to a tank maybe my driving getting used to the skyline. It has the trick where it stalls sometimes going around a corner if you tap the peddel. It also looks like it has a type s BOV on it but plumbed back to air intake.

With your remap would this fix the idle issue and also the fuel econ. I dont want too much more power and I want to try and keep it quiet as I just got my licence back lol and the Mrs's drives it also.

Would you suggest a boost controller and FMIC (I do alot of city driving)

Thanks

Robbie

Hi Toshi I have a 95 GTST Skyline Sedan Auto looks like nothing has been done apart from the earthing of the duel stage boost controller.

It has a AFR meter which says it is lean most of the time but chews does like 330km to a tank maybe my driving getting used to the skyline. It has the trick where it stalls sometimes going around a corner if you tap the peddel. It also looks like it has a type s BOV on it but plumbed back to air intake.

With your remap would this fix the idle issue and also the fuel econ. I dont want too much more power and I want to try and keep it quiet as I just got my licence back lol and the Mrs's drives it also.

Would you suggest a boost controller and FMIC (I do alot of city driving)

Thanks

Robbie

Please tell me is your AFR meter widband?

Please come to me I will check your car.

I am not sure if it Wide band. Only just got the car last week.

I hopefully get my pay rise next week so I will make a time to come and see you.

  • 1 month later...

Hey Toshi.

Just curious. Can you only get a daughterboard for an R34 Gtt or can you do a remap? What's the difference? Can't do Nistune on R34 can you?

I have a NISMO exhaust turbo back. Soon to have a high-flow cat and FMIC and boost controller.

Will be seeing you very soon :)

R34 ecu need daughterboard install for remap.

Daughterboard need x2 emulator and NISTUNE board do not need emulator for remap.

Daughterboard much cheaper than NISTUNE board.

Yes I can R34 NISTUNE.(NISTUNE and remap is same)

Hey Toshi.

Just curious. Can you only get a daughterboard for an R34 Gtt or can you do a remap? What's the difference? Can't do Nistune on R34 can you?

I have a NISMO exhaust turbo back. Soon to have a high-flow cat and FMIC and boost controller.

Will be seeing you very soon :)

How much we talking Toshi in price differences between NISTUNE and daughterboard?

I think NISTUNE board around $300 and daughterboard$150.

Remap labour is same.

That's not too bad. I wouldn't mind paying the extra for the NISTUNE as long as its going to have some benefit?

Daughterboard and NISTUNE board is same performance.(Daughterboard need emulator and NISTUNE board do not need)

Also Im using both NISTUNE softwear.

If you do not know eprom emulator please search it.

That's not too bad. I wouldn't mind paying the extra for the NISTUNE as long as its going to have some benefit?

Ok cool.

So to confirm would it be $750 for a dyno tune + $90 per hour dyno fee with NISTUNE?

Thanks

I sent PM.

Ok cool.

So to confirm would it be $750 for a dyno tune + $90 per hour dyno fee with NISTUNE?

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

hey Toshi

i want to make a booking for road tune...

ive got a r32 RB20DET

MODS

splitdump pipe 3" all the way thru (no cat)

front mount intercooler

K&N filter CAI

Greedy Profec b II boost controll turned off.. (coz i want it to be tuned and set at a safe boost level)

Thats about it.. any recomendations prior to tune like oil change? do the plugs?

im from sydney BTW thanks

I sent PM.

Thank you

hey Toshi

i want to make a booking for road tune...

ive got a r32 RB20DET

MODS

splitdump pipe 3" all the way thru (no cat)

front mount intercooler

K&N filter CAI

Greedy Profec b II boost controll turned off.. (coz i want it to be tuned and set at a safe boost level)

Thats about it.. any recomendations prior to tune like oil change? do the plugs?

im from sydney BTW thanks

Toshi,

PM details about options for retuning ECU on a 2001 M35 Stagea (VQ25DET).

The only mod I know of so far is a Nissan Performance Muffler (Nismo?), it's a cat. back.

Chewing through heaps of fuel thanks to Nissan Japan factory tune :D

Im sorry.

I can not remap M35.

Toshi,

PM details about options for retuning ECU on a 2001 M35 Stagea (VQ25DET).

The only mod I know of so far is a Nissan Performance Muffler (Nismo?), it's a cat. back.

Chewing through heaps of fuel thanks to Nissan Japan factory tune :D

hey everyone i got my car tuned by toshi today... i highly recommend him and im very happy with the results.. he knows what his doiin and he will take his time to fine tune your car until he gets it right and safe.. my car goes harder and spools up way faster than before.. thanks toshi

I also had my ECR33 tuned by Toshi recently, and i have absolutely no hesitation in recommending him to any of you. The car hasn't once run this nicely in the 3 years i've owned it. Toshi is also extremely friendly and helpful, and puts a massive amount of effort into making sure you drive away satisfied.

Thanks again Toshi!




  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
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