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Nistune Powerfc Hks Fcon Haltech Ems Link Ecu Etc Real Time Road Tune And Dyno Tune Available In Sydney And Other State


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Hi Toshi,

I recently bought an r33 gtst, mild mods, fmic, turbo back exhaust, CAI, boost. Just after your opinion of whether a remap or an emanage blue would be better for my application.

Also, i am currently getting around 330km from 55 litres of fuel, would your flash tune decrease fuel consumption by much?

Final question, does your remap eliminate the Rich and Retard feature of the standard ECU?

Very keen for this tune once i sort my misfire issue out.

Thanks,

Dave

Edited by Daza33

i have a remap ecu by toshi and he does a great job and would be well worth the dollars.it does elimanate rich and retard and can have ur rev limiter and top speed changed,i would advise u to get a walbro or bosch fuel pump and have it rewired to receive direct current from ur alternator so u receive a constant voltage.also make sure ur boost controller is strong and doesnt spike for best results.toshi is a very helpful guy and will help answer any questions and sort any isssues.if u have the cash id go a nistune

Hi Toshi,

I recently bought an r33 gtst, mild mods, fmic, turbo back exhaust, CAI, boost. Just after your opinion of whether a remap or an emanage blue would be better for my application.

Also, i am currently getting around 330km from 55 litres of fuel, would your flash tune decrease fuel consumption by much?

Final question, does your remap eliminate the Rich and Retard feature of the standard ECU?

Very keen for this tune once i sort my misfire issue out.

Thanks,

Dave

I sent PM.

i have a remap ecu by toshi and he does a great job and would be well worth the dollars.it does elimanate rich and retard and can have ur rev limiter and top speed changed,i would advise u to get a walbro or bosch fuel pump and have it rewired to receive direct current from ur alternator so u receive a constant voltage.also make sure ur boost controller is strong and doesnt spike for best results.toshi is a very helpful guy and will help answer any questions and sort any isssues.if u have the cash id go a nistune

Thank you RB25 SKYLINE

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my mates 200 tuned by Toshi.... just waiting to throw my new turbo setup in before I take my 33 to him...

I also made up some stickers for him to help spread the word.... If anyone wants one give Toshi a call.

Available in a bunch of different colours.

photo2-3.jpg

photo1-1.jpg

Edited by arrydjay
  • 5 weeks later...

heres my dyno results after a toshi tune on a r33,full exhaust,aftermarket fuel pump,FMIC.

post-87182-0-81101500-1339371294_thumb.jpg

post-87182-0-26727800-1339371490_thumb.jpg

is there any way i can get nistune with base map shipped to kl malaysia..pls pm or email me at [email protected]

will gladly provide specs later..

  • 1 month later...

R34 RB25Neo

V-Power 98

16psi

GCG hi flow turbo

Standard internals

3in exhaust + dump

stainless turbo manifold

Apexi front mount Delta type

Z32 air flow meter

Splitfire coils NGK plugs

STD injectors

Walbro fuel pump

Nistune by Toshi

277Kw 500.3FtLb torque

R34GCG277kw.JPG

R33 S2

Unopened RB25 ~100,000km

Hypergear PU Highflow (non SS1)

Blitz return flow FMIC

Splitfire Coils

Metal intake with std airbox

Z32 AFM

S15 480cc injectors

Gizzmo Boost controller

Xtreme Cushion button clutch

R33287kw.JPG

RB25DET

18psi

GCG turbo

RB25 Standard internals

Front mount inter cooler

Z32 air flow meter

Fuel pump

269kw

S13RB25Sss.JPG

R33 Series 2 5spd manual

Stock RB25det series 2 engine

-3" turbo back exhaust

-Hypergear Hiflow 21U housing (R33 turbo hiflow)

-Z32 afm

-Pod filter

-Stock injectors

-Frount mount intercooler

-wolbro fuel pump

Makes 263rwkw on 15psi

R33.21U.260kw1.JPG

RB20 RB26 std cam shaft data

Std RB26 over lap is 0 degrees.(I think for emission control).

Std RB20 over lap is 5 degrees.

Std RB26 cam shaft cam angle ; IN 240 degrees EX 236 degrees

Std RB20 cam shaft cam angle ; IN 240 degrees EX 240 degrees

Adjust cams gear for RB20 and RB26

For make more power

Std cam shaft ; valve timing adjust to around IN 110 degrees EX 115 degrees and adjust over lap to 13-17degrees.

Hi cam shaft valve timing adjust to around IN 110degrees EX 115 and if you do not like rough idle do not adjust over lap over 20 degrees.

Valve timing is depend on hi camshaft and turbo.Find best valve timing is need many times adjust and test so adjust valve timing is take a time for hi cam shaft.

How to adjust valve timing

tomei.camsgear.JPG

It is available to adjust the valve timing and change the engine out put characteristics by change the valve closing timing according to the initial value.

・ Crank pulley left turn(Advance Valve timing)→Low end boost

・ Crank pulley right turn(Delay Valve timing)→High speed gain

Hi Toshi,

If I were to send you an R33 series 1 RB25DE stock ECU, can you modify it with Nistune, to allow a Nistune tuner in victoria to tune my RB25DE+T? The Nistune website doesn't list anything for R33 RB25 and says to either use an R32 RB20DET ECU or a Z32 ECU with modifications?

Cheers, Josh

People mixed up nistune board and nistune software.

Im using nistune software for R33 ecu tune but I do not using nistune board.(Im using daughter board (impoart from Japan) with emulate)

Please read this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405546-r33-ecu-basic-dyno-tune-drive-in-drive-away-only-580-full-road-tune-from-550-include-parts/page__hl__toshi__fromsearch__1

If you want to use nistune board you need Z32 ecu or R32 ecu.

I can send Z32 ecu or R32 ecu with nistune board installed de+T data.

Price $600 include ecu.

Ah ok. It read as if you were able to now Nistune R33 ECU's. $600 plus freight for plug-and-play Z32 ECU for a R33 GTST, that any Nistune tuner can use, correct?

The approach that is taken in Japan for better responses is to change the VCT (NVCS) rpm when a bigger turbo is installed.

However, unfortunately VCT rpm is often not changed here in Australia.

On the mainline dyno, the difference can't be seen too well but on the hub dyno and on the road, there is a significant difference

post-1094-0-82384000-1343547580_thumb.jpg

It may be an idea to give it a try- change VCT rpm yourself

Good Luck

I tuned Mr David Stankowski nissan laurel RB25 DET race car last year and he is driving REPCO PRO DRIFT CHAMPIONSHIP this year.

ECU is real time tuned R33 ecu. (not Z32 with nistune board)

His car mods is FMIC , bigger fuel pump , my tuned ecu , and stock turbo!

Boost 15psi.

David.drift.JPG

David.battle.JPG

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=518812&st=0&p=6586278&hl=david%20stankowski&fromsearch=1entry6586278

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vb4kF8O531k

  • Like 1

Some JASMA muffler (made in Japan quiet muffler .eg;quiet NISMO muffler) can not make power.

Because oust side pipe is big but inside is very small for pass registration in Japan.

jasma%20plate.JPG

jasma.muffler.JPG




  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
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