Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate you get what you pay for.... in the case of china/korea/asian turbos... you will get a cjheap turbo that makes som power, but doesnt spool as early, or make as muich power as a well made "name" brand turbo... its not to say the cheaper option is totally shit... but there are better options out there for a few bucks more.

check out the garret range, or even second hand HSK turbos... a 2350 would be perfect for what you want.. it will make 230 rwkw and have awesome response for the street.

this just in:

---------------------

RB20- Standard Internals

Hyper Gear HR43 High Flow Turbo

High Mount Manifold

External 38mm Wastegate, Screamer

Z32 AFM

550cc Injectors

Speed Lab Remap ECU

Running 19psi made 245 rwkw

----------------------

Edited by joeleo87

dmac_25 has just finished putting on a TR43

I went for a drive with it on 10psi and it goes alright - pulls hard from like 4,500 all the way to red line easilt

Have to see how it goes once its tuned - but PM him if you want more details

Standard RB20 with FMIC, GTR pump, turbo back exhaust and CEF11E remap (for bigger injectors and Z32 AFM) but they weren't on the car at the time

It looks neat though, you can't tell there is an after market turbo on there - retains all the stock intercooler piping etc

untuned on the RB20 with exhaust and cooler it came on full boost about 4,500rpm I think it was

Yep it is starts spooling at bout 3 hits 10psi about 4-5k rpm and pulls like a bitch all the way to the limiter

funny Simon I don't remember reading anything about you being disappointed

with the power fig and response when yopu fitted it up

:teehee:

guess sometimes you gotta keep your thoughts to yourself lol

2530 will eat a tr43 response wise and only make alittle less power 230ish

fullboost by 3,500 and would pull all the way to redline

I though that was alittle laggy cant imagine what 4,500rpm full boost would be like on a 20

I'd want 260rwkw min for that sort of lag

i mentioned several times that i was never very happy with the responce on an rb20, maybe try reading harder. Power was good tho.

now that i have a good turbo... its easy to compare it to the bad ones ')

funny Simon I don't remember reading anything about you being disappointed

with the power fig and response when yopu fitted it up

:whistling:

guess sometimes you gotta keep your thoughts to yourself lol

2530 will eat a tr43 response wise and only make alittle less power 230ish

fullboost by 3,500 and would pull all the way to redline

I though that was alittle laggy cant imagine what 4,500rpm full boost would be like on a 20

I'd want 260rwkw min for that sort of lag

Simon: First of all I don't remember that we sold you a TR43 high flowed version or if you were one of our customer at all.

We are not KKR so If you had bad experiences from other turbo suppliers please chase up with them instead.

The TR43 Hi flowed turbo developed is a High boost High Efficiency project built with 360 degrees trust bearing and a lot stronger shaft.

Supra_R32 on this forum has made 245RWKWs at 18PSI full boost at 4300 RPM with a RB20 we have made 280RWKWs with this turbo on a 1.8L CA18det !!! .

Even for a Standard TR43 we've made 190RWKWs on a RB20det with 10PSI of boost with factory every thing.

Turbo is just a compressor, If you've bought this turbo and not making power, then I suggest you to check your tunning as well as other supporting mods.

Edited by hypergear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...