Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by FAT32

Steve,

Just the normal stuff, GT-R Fuel Pump, NISMO Fuel Pressure Reg, Pod Filter, re-chipped ECU. I think I might have to try the new pipe between the AFM and the turbo as it could be a possible cause. Are you getting yours made for $100 ?

Yep, $100 in adeliade.

If its a garrett core, not a HKS one, it just isnt the same. Although garrett make HKS cores, ONLY HKS can sell them. they put in alot of r&d, and want to protect that, and therefore have an agreement with garrett not to sell to anyone else. So unfortunately, were not comparing apples and apples.

Probably still worth replacing that pipe though - couldnt hurt.

I've heard that the GT2540 aint a very good turbo, and that it has now been replaced with the GT-RS turbo? The GT2540 gave too little top end power in return for the increase in lag. So you would be better going the GT-RS, although this is a new turbo and probably cost a bucket load.

I have read that HKS turbos are more efficient at higher boost, whereas Garrett turbos are more efficient at lower boost (eg 1bar and less). I thought HKS and Garrett turbos were just about the same, the only difference being that the HKS have specific HKS compressor trims.

fat32, can you superimpose dyno results from your old t3/t4 and your 2530 turbo?

it'd be interesting to see how peaky your old turbo was compared to the 2530...? i suspect your 2530 is making alot more power down low so your "pin you to your seat" feeling will be less exaggerated?

i guess its all down to personal preference but the area under the curve is more important than the outright peak power figure imho.

Once again it's all to personal preference, but once you've been in a big turbo car...it's hard to go back to the smaller turbos :) Although I do admit that the smaller turbo cars actually feel "faster" on the street, because they are with their quicker response and you only drive upto 60km/hr most of the time.

I have read that HKS turbos are more efficient at higher boost, whereas Garrett turbos are more efficient at lower boost (eg 1bar and less). I thought HKS and Garrett turbos were just about the same, the only difference being that the HKS have specific HKS compressor trims

Covered pretty well in this thread ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=HKS+turbos

Seems the main advantage of HKS is you get a little HKS stamp on the side and pay a lot more ;)

If you bought it from GCG, I'd put money on the fact that it isn't an HKS turbo.

To whoever asked, you'll be VERY hard pressed to find the compressor maps for the HKS turbo range... They are very closely guarded secrets.

As to how do we know that they're more efficient at higher boost levels? From personal experience, from the thousands of people in Japan who use these turbos, and most importantly, from what HKS dealers set boost at for their customers in Japan.

That's the main difference between Garrett and HKS turbos. Their compressor and exhaust wheel designs. Garrett are designed for lower boost power, and the HKS turbos have their efficiency range shifted to higher rpm to produce more power...

People say the HKS turbos spool up faster than the Garrett equivalent, but I have never seen a back to back test to prove that.

All I know is that the relatively big HKS GT3040 on my car spools just as fast than stock GTR turbos and makes a crapload more power.

I think it's almost a well known fact that HKS turbo are more efficient at high boost, and Garrett turbos more efficient at lower boost. But having said this, it would be good to have a direct comparison between an HKS and equivalent Garrett turbo. I agree, the HKS compressor maps are very hard to find - if possible. They seem very secretive about their work, and who wouldn't be ;) The letters "HKS" are just about as reknown as "GTR" :D

Merli, just discussing the point - there is no "hard" data to support the arguements that HKS turbos are a) more efficient and B) make more power than an equivalent sized ball bearing turbo. That's the only point i'm making, and asking around to see if there is any actual data supporting that case.

Don't take it as an attack on you comments, I've got a HKS turbo on my car too. Would just like something more tangible than old wive's tales.

I have never, ever heard anyone say anything bad about HKS turbos, except the 2540. I have never, ever heard anyone who has driven cars with garrett turbos, and a correctly sized HKS turbo say they prefer the garrett.

All the evidence, be it hearsay, points in one direction only. Choices are personal, but if everybody who has used the HKS turbos comments that nothing in the garrett range comes close, you would have to be a bit niave to expect different.

Names mean alot in Japan, but generally the name is only established through performance. I find the japanese like to let their results do the talking.

Merli, what turbine AR does your turbo have? and when does it start making boost and hit full boost (however much that is)?

Cheers

Steve

Originally posted by DoughBoy

Merli, just discussing the point - there is no "hard" data to support the arguements that HKS turbos are a) more efficient and B) make more power than an equivalent sized ball bearing turbo. That's the only point i'm making, and asking around to see if there is any actual data supporting that case.

Don't take it as an attack on you comments, I've got a HKS turbo on my car too. Would just like something more tangible than old wive's tales.

a) they're not more efficient, they have different compressor/exhaust wheels that SHIFT the efficiency band to higher boost levels.

B) you don't believe that an HKS GT2530 would make more power at 1.6 bar than a Garrett GT25 at 1.1 bar??? Or to illustrate the point further, a Garrett GT25 at 1.6 bar, where it would just be blowing hot air and making less power than at 1.2 bar?

That's interesting, I didn't find it that hard to believe. If you believe that the HKS turbos are optimised for higher boost, the fact that they produce more power makes perfect sense to me.

And I agree with the others, although there may not be any direct "GT30 on the car... dyno it, take it off, HKS GT3040 on the car... dyno it" comparisons, I think the fact those "old wives tales" have considerable weight behind them, especially when you hear the same from all japanese tuners who have been playing with these Garrett/HKS turbos ever since the conception of the RB range of engines.

Steve, I have a 0.87 turbine housing, and I hit 1.2 bar by 4000rpm... That's all I have run, but I would assume 1.8 bar by 4300-4400rpm... I know, this turbo is wasted with stock internals ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...