Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

idle and at 2000 is about right...the 6000rpm on pressure can rise upto bout 5-6 cant see the marks properly..but for 6000 is maybe another 1kg or 2 more than 4kg...oh well the only problems with pressure would be if you are using a high rating oil like 10w-60w my pressure jumped about 3kg on each spec on idle it was about 3kg. The stock gauges can be sometimes faultu too.

  • 8 months later...

sorry to bring this old tread back but i saves me makeing a new one.. i have a R32 and at idle the gauge will sit at just under 4 and after it warms up it sits just under 2. then after about 10mins or so of driving when stopped again the gauge sits about 3mm from the 0 mark and on the highway it sits just over 2??? i'm using castrol magnatec 15w-40. could this just be a dead sender or gauge the car doesn't seem to drive and different.

seems to vary a bit between models. and it's unusual to hear about a motor being damaged by lack of oil pressure - unless of course it's being used on a track and suffers from starvation under hard braking or something.

Mine will get pretty close to 0 at idle, with a thin oil like 5W-40. I tried some thicker synth oil and it held pressure a touch better but revability and cold start were affected. Now that it's coming back into winter again i put 5W-40 back, and I reckon thin oil's the go in any case.

My unprofessional opinion is not to worry about it, just work out what's normal for your car and if it does anything different THEN worry. :)

i'll get a oil pressure gauge after my cooler install and see what the go is.. the car has 160,000 kms on it and has been serviced every 5,000kms ( that what the previous owner said, i hope ) and the head is only 60,000kms old. could it be a oil pump problem?

  • 2 weeks later...

I got my '93 R33 turb serviced recently and since I got it back the stock oil pressure guage doesn't seem to be working. More specifically, it is sitting on 0 all the time.

I can't think of anything that they may have done that would have damaged it but surely I'm not driving around on 0 kg/cm2 oil pressure. The car is running fine.

Before the service the oil pressure guage behaved normally.

1-2kg for idle

4-5kg for boosting

Any ideas on what I should look at to fix it? (I have checked connections into the guage). Is there a sensor they could have knocked or something like that ?

Thanks.

Make sure they haven't disconnected the sender connection on the oil filter block, under the intake manifold.

Mine goes off the dial when cold and drops to 2 at idle when fully warmed up and will go over 6 on the track at full noise.

It all depends on how many kays the engine has done and what your oil level is.

I let my oil level get down too low and it dropped to those low pressures, then a big end bearing ran. The bearings were old tho.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...