Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

idle and at 2000 is about right...the 6000rpm on pressure can rise upto bout 5-6 cant see the marks properly..but for 6000 is maybe another 1kg or 2 more than 4kg...oh well the only problems with pressure would be if you are using a high rating oil like 10w-60w my pressure jumped about 3kg on each spec on idle it was about 3kg. The stock gauges can be sometimes faultu too.

  • 8 months later...

sorry to bring this old tread back but i saves me makeing a new one.. i have a R32 and at idle the gauge will sit at just under 4 and after it warms up it sits just under 2. then after about 10mins or so of driving when stopped again the gauge sits about 3mm from the 0 mark and on the highway it sits just over 2??? i'm using castrol magnatec 15w-40. could this just be a dead sender or gauge the car doesn't seem to drive and different.

seems to vary a bit between models. and it's unusual to hear about a motor being damaged by lack of oil pressure - unless of course it's being used on a track and suffers from starvation under hard braking or something.

Mine will get pretty close to 0 at idle, with a thin oil like 5W-40. I tried some thicker synth oil and it held pressure a touch better but revability and cold start were affected. Now that it's coming back into winter again i put 5W-40 back, and I reckon thin oil's the go in any case.

My unprofessional opinion is not to worry about it, just work out what's normal for your car and if it does anything different THEN worry. :)

i'll get a oil pressure gauge after my cooler install and see what the go is.. the car has 160,000 kms on it and has been serviced every 5,000kms ( that what the previous owner said, i hope ) and the head is only 60,000kms old. could it be a oil pump problem?

  • 2 weeks later...

I got my '93 R33 turb serviced recently and since I got it back the stock oil pressure guage doesn't seem to be working. More specifically, it is sitting on 0 all the time.

I can't think of anything that they may have done that would have damaged it but surely I'm not driving around on 0 kg/cm2 oil pressure. The car is running fine.

Before the service the oil pressure guage behaved normally.

1-2kg for idle

4-5kg for boosting

Any ideas on what I should look at to fix it? (I have checked connections into the guage). Is there a sensor they could have knocked or something like that ?

Thanks.

Make sure they haven't disconnected the sender connection on the oil filter block, under the intake manifold.

Mine goes off the dial when cold and drops to 2 at idle when fully warmed up and will go over 6 on the track at full noise.

It all depends on how many kays the engine has done and what your oil level is.

I let my oil level get down too low and it dropped to those low pressures, then a big end bearing ran. The bearings were old tho.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
×
×
  • Create New...