Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Boost Increase - Should I Go R32 Actuator Vs Turbotech

colossus

By colossus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

colossus Community Regular

colossus

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I have an R34 GTT auto coupe. I've got a catback exhaust and disconnected the two stage boost control but thats it at the moment.

I have done some research on upping the boost (10psi seems the safest level) and a few people have said to install an R32 wastegate actuator as they are set at 10psi from factory. So I ordered one at it is ready to go but then my mate mentioned he has one of those $30 turbotech manual boost controllers that I can have for free (he's sold his turbo).

So what is going to give me a better result?

I want boost to come on faster and I love midrange and low end (all of which the turbotech apparently achieves) will the R32 actuator achieve this too?

MR 33 Rising Star

MR 33

Posted
Posted

The actuator will bring on strong mid range etc as the wastegate is closed for longer down low. Just don't forget, once you install it there's no going under 10psi if you wanna conserve petrol or something.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

The turbotech will do a good job and be easier to install.

For the money that little contraption is great! I was thinking about removing my current avc-r and putting the turbo back on because it holds boost at 26psi where the electronic cannot because the wastegate spring is too light. OR get a bigger wastegate spring.

Turbotech rocks. Get one.

colossus Community Regular

colossus

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The turbotech will do a good job and be easier to install.

A few people have mentioned the wastegate actuator will be difficult to install - I thought you just pull off the IC piping and its a straight swap - or more complex?

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

What about the greddy profec spec B II ? is that better than the turbo tech ? I just want to up my boost to about 10-11psi on my stock turbo. my engine is a Rb25..

R-SPEC Grand Master

R-SPEC

Posted
Posted

same, auto r34 with catback. got a single stage boost controller sitting here but was also thinking if the r32 actuator would be the better option...

but i like the idea of switching from stock boost to raised boost with a flick of a switch better so might just put in the controller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...