Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Selling my rb2.1 has done less than 4000klm putting car back to standard to sell spec's are

Rb20 block bored 40 thou cracked checked acid cleaned line bored

arias 40 thou oversized pistons

rb26 conrods resized shotpeened and hardened and balanced arp rod bolts

rb25 crank with n1 colar fitted checked and balanced

n1 water pump

n1 oil pump

arp main and head bolts

hks cams 264 9mm lift

hks cam gears gates timing belt

rb20head port and polished with 1mm oversized valves

oil return from head to sump

tomei oil restrictors

no turbo or injectors or ecu

thats about all I can think of atm but will update if I remember anything else, engine has made 306rwkw with only 1800k's on it, in an r32 gtst and has run an 11.7 at wsid on its second outing so there was more in it

Price $6500 which is less than half what it cost to build

location is sydney west

Will update with pics of build a bit later

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210438-eoi-rb21/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

I can vouch for this set-up as I have been in the car numerous times.

A really tough and well thought out engine with a lot more left in it.

Someones going to pick up an awesome engine package.

Cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210438-eoi-rb21/#findComment-3991636
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...