Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I got my R33 GTR tuned recently, I went from a Japanese Mines ECU to a PowerFC + adjustable cam gears and the boost was upped to about 1 bar.

Stock turbo's, aftermarket radiator, high flow cat, 3inch turbo-back exhaust (HKS Super dragger), stock airbox with highflow panel filter and hot weather (30degrees plus unless the workshop had air conditioning :)).

I believe those are the only performance related mods my car has.

So is this a good tune? I was thoroughly impressed with the power and the response.

Regards,

Gareth

post-13527-1205657162_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1205657176_thumb.jpg

Looks fairly spot on.

If you had a wide band on it, plus liked to tinker, it could be 2-5 points leaner. (EDIT: by this, I'm not saying its not a good tune; its a great 'safe' tune for a customer. I'm saying if it was mine, or somone that can see live AFR's, then I'd run it closer to the edge, and be wary after filling up / Summer / towing a boat)

What you have is pretty safe.

Rem, your graph shows a WOT power run, so doesn't show other 'day to day' load cell results.

Edited by GeeTR
really? A:F ratio looks a bit rough, still good but could be a bit better?

PS - *my limited experience denotes my opinion means little*

Its the graph power curve thats important.

As long as the AFR's are safe, it doesnt matter if they jump around a little bit to achieve a brilliant curve like that :(

What would you prefer, slavishly tuning to a predetermined A/F ratio? And getting a rough power curve as a result? Or tuning for a smooth and progressive power curve and letting the A/F ratios fall wherever is best for power?

I know what I would choose.

Cheers

Gary

Is that RWKW??

Did you have a base figure? Curious as i want to do similar mods on my 33 GTR. Also what dumps and front pipe you running. Cheers Nick

RWKW, its not amazing power for a GTR, but I'm thoroughly impressed by the response of the car, and its only running stock turbo's in the end.

I am unsure about the front pipe, its a HKS super dragger muffler, 3inch exhaust system, it *might* be turbo back but I'm not sure.

The car has very few engine related mods, its all suspension and cooling mods...

Better get yourself some new Turbo's......

Pushing those figures it won't be long before the exhaust wheels go.

Could have saved a bit for Turbo's first then Powerfc with tune.

Better get yourself some new Turbo's......

Pushing those figures it won't be long before the exhaust wheels go.

Could have saved a bit for Turbo's first then Powerfc with tune.

This was tuned by a trusted tuner, I didn't say "push the boost to 1 bar", he decided to put it there and I'm sure it will be fine, I have locked the boost controller so it won't accidentally get turned beyond 1 bar.

1bar is somewhere between 14 and 15 psi...? doesnt sound too high? I have the following to go on my 260RS -

3" exhaust inc front pipe and high flow cat, 600x300x100 fmic, apexi PFC, K&N panel filter in standard box. Running 1 bar i should see similar? are our setups fairly similar then?

Its running 1bar.

Perfectly fine for good condition GTR items, not a lot fail.

Its only those who push harder that see issues

Plenty of 1-bar GTR's around

Yes..correct Ash. I am all for what you are saying.

Assuming.....A 100% history of the car is available..and the Turbo's have not seen more than 100K of service.

Lets face it ceramic /exhaust wheels are not the most reliable things to have stuck on a 250KW GTR even RW.

some_cs_student

The tune you have is great...and the quality work your tuner has done for many on here is un-questionable.

I was just trying to say that if I had a GTR33 "Which I have" and it still ran stock Turbo's "Which you are",

this is one of the first recommendations I would have suggested before your tune.

My advice to you still stands.

Change your Turbo's :)

1bar is somewhere between 14 and 15 psi...? doesnt sound too high? I have the following to go on my 260RS -

3" exhaust inc front pipe and high flow cat, 600x300x100 fmic, apexi PFC, K&N panel filter in standard box. Running 1 bar i should see similar? are our setups fairly similar then?

I have a stock intercooler, but similar mods performance wise. Drop me a PM when you get it tuned, I'm curious as to how you will go :)

Yes..correct Ash. I am all for what you are saying.

I was just trying to say that if I had a GTR33 "Which I have" and it still ran stock Turbo's "Which you are",

this is one of the first recommendations I would have suggested before your tune.

My advice to you still stands.

Change your Turbo's :P

Point taken mate, I will do it *one* day, need to save up more $$$ first, and then I'll worry about going for aftermarket turbo's or high flowing them or similar.

The next concern would be with different turbo's, engine rebuild :D

Anyway, appreciate the advice :)

-

Gareth

I have a stock intercooler, but similar mods performance wise. Drop me a PM when you get it tuned, I'm curious as to how you will go :/

Will let you know. Hoping for 220 or so, but we'll see.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...