Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heyy all

i own a 1993 R32 GTS4. now i bought it round 3 or 4 months ago and it had a heavy duty clutch in it already however it wasnt some heavy ass clutch just a bit heaver than stock. Now last night i was driving it and it was fine and i wasnt hammering it. But this morning when i went to go to work i put my foot on the clutch and my foot went straight to the floor like when you lose your brakes but with my clutch. I opened the bonnet to check my clutch fluid, this is at 2:30am so its pretty dark, and from what i could see all my fluids were good. I have no idea what the problem is but my only guess is the slave cylinder has pooped it or my actual clutch pedal has broken or something. One thing i did notice tho was when i put my foot down and the pedal went all the way down only at the very last bit did it feel like there was a bit of pressure there.

So can anyone help me with this and also how much is this going to cost me?? :nyaanyaa:

cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210725-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

best explanation would be air could of gotten into the line some how??? to test if your clutch is working put the car into first and get someone to push without starting. take it to your nearest transmission shop and they will tell you wats wrong straight away.

also try pumping the clutch if this can bring up pressure then u might have a leak somewhere

Edited by Greekos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210725-clutch-problem/#findComment-3734532
Share on other sites

cheers for that

took it to my mech the other day and found that the clutch master cylinder was leaking so need a brand new clutch master cylinder....$300 later including the tow and im back on the roads yaay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210725-clutch-problem/#findComment-3736113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...