Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, is there a way to tell if you have got an aftermarket clutch or not?, i bought my r33 gts4 round 80000kms, i was thinking about putting a heavy duty clutch in, but im not sure if i already have one in or not. I don't want to pay for labor to remove clutch to find out there was already an aftermarket clutch in there.

If i give my car a hard launch would the stock clutch slip alot?, i rev my gts4 to about 6000rpm (to test clutch) and dropped the clutch. all 4 wheels screeched a bit and i got off the line pretty quick. Also when I give my car some go and shift quickly just before red line, (1st to 2nd gear), the tyres would also screech.

Now would a stock clutch be able to do that? or does my car may already have an aftermarket clutch?

  • 2 weeks later...

yea agreed. mine had a stock clutch and i gave it hel and it lasted till 98000kms...then it snapped in half. mind you i brought the car with 50000 on it but they work fine. i have an excedy ceremic clutch now and there isnt much difference to tell you the truth beside you can chirp 3rds without a problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...