Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol yeah they were removed from the car when i wire brushed and sanded them but mounted them back up because it was the best place to spray all showing areas withought a vice marking certain areas.

good fun and certainly pays off just cant wait till tomorrow when its all dry to stick the new pads and slotted/drilled rotor in! will look a million bucks compared to those old rusy ones

post-27156-1208010642_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol yeah they were removed from the car when i wire brushed and sanded them but mounted them back up because it was the best place to spray all showing areas withought a vice marking certain areas.

good fun and certainly pays off just cant wait till tomorrow when its all dry to stick the new pads and slotted/drilled rotor in! will look a million bucks compared to those old rusy ones

hang with wire through a bolt hole :)

I don't know about you guys, but with all my cars, i have only used those $3.00 a spray can and cheap clear coat. And i can assure, they can last for heaps long.

My previous car i owned for about 3 years, did the calipers the first day i owned it, and still looked new when i sold it.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Trying to decide whether to paint or powdercoat my calipers now...

I was going to take them off and paint them black when replacing my rotors/lines/fluid/pads....but now thinking about powdercoating...if I went that route I'd probably rebuild them at the same time....is it possible for a powdercoater to mask off the NISSAN lettering and powdercoat that a different color, or is that asking too much?

Trying to decide whether to paint or powdercoat my calipers now...

I was going to take them off and paint them black when replacing my rotors/lines/fluid/pads....but now thinking about powdercoating...if I went that route I'd probably rebuild them at the same time....is it possible for a powdercoater to mask off the NISSAN lettering and powdercoat that a different color, or is that asking too much?

definately possible mate, just whether or not your coater will be willing to do it

I bought a second set of calipers and had them rebuilt, car wasn't off the road that way. Last weekend I sanded back the NISSAN lettering to remove the texture with emery/ fine sand paper to make them smooth. I then cleaned them with thinners, being careful with the seals. I taped up the internals (slow painful job that - longest part of process) and hung them up using a coat hanger around the two bolts/pins for the pads. I painted them in gloss black VHT and then used more emery/fine sand paper to carefully expose the NISSAN lettering, nice and shiny. I then went straight over them in VHT clear coat a few times. If I get round to it I'll post up a photo or two. Hopefully that all sticks well and lasts.

When I get around to swapping the calipers over I will clean the rotor centers and give them a quick paint too. Good thing is I don't have to do fronts and rears in the same day if I don't get around to it.

^^Iam planning to give my calipers a fresh look too. A nice brembo red colour and sand back to see the NISSAN Logo.

By looking at what jenkies did in the photo he posted, looks like he has masked up the areas and just sprayed the caliper without taking it off.

I assume thats fine but you must clean the surface of the caliper right?

I was thinking cleaning the caliper with metholated spirits (right cleaning solution?), give it a good scrub and wipe down then mask it up and spray.

How hot does the calipers heat up to?

VHT should be ok right?

You can paint exhaust mainfolds with VHT so I assume painting a caliper should be fine..?

VHT works fine, mines been VHT gold for 3 or 4 years now. they just dont pop enough for me colour wise.

i used thinners and a wire brush on mine to clean, same deal with not removing them.

waiting for a new candy gold to come in my next batch of powder then i'll get my spares coated.

VHT works fine, mines been VHT gold for 3 or 4 years now. they just dont pop enough for me colour wise.

i used thinners and a wire brush on mine to clean, same deal with not removing them.

waiting for a new candy gold to come in my next batch of powder then i'll get my spares coated.

Cool thanks Craved!

Would you have to do a recoat after sometime?

Cause the calipers can get abit of exposier from the sun, wind and rain...

Few pics of how they came up.. nothing flash but they look better than they did. Maybe a few more coats of clear could possibly help? Even a coat or two of wax to protect them even more.

post-13456-1212806110_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1212806144_thumb.jpg

This is just how I hung them up. Was able to hold coat hanger while painting them and hung them up in between coats. Left arm and shoulder got a little sore after a while holding them up. If you have a place to hange them up and be ablt to paint them in that locatino then that would be best. I was able to tilt the caliper by touching the taped up bleed nipple on the rear.

post-13456-1212806391_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
^ WOW those turned out really good.

i just used VHT paint. Painted mine like 2 years ago and they havnt flaked off etc.

How much did it cost to powdercoat?

yeah VHT does work great, but i still want more gloss than the VHT clear can provide.

those were are fairly big calipers off a 9" rear ended Torana. $40 each might sound expensive, but there is alot more work on them than they look.

Thinking I'll get mine powdercoated now rather than paint them...I was going to paint them as I was planning on doing my rotors/lines/pads with a mate, but being that it needs to be done within the day, the painting would be rushed. So I'll leave it at the workshop the next time its in and get some bits and pieces powdercoated. Hopefully the powdercoater they send it to knows what he's doing with calipers and doesn't ruin them for me :sick:

Just a side question for you chris, is it possible to powdercoat just the hat of a brake rotor, or is there no way to mask the rotor face to withstand the powdercoating process?

Thinking I'll get mine powdercoated now rather than paint them...I was going to paint them as I was planning on doing my rotors/lines/pads with a mate, but being that it needs to be done within the day, the painting would be rushed. So I'll leave it at the workshop the next time its in and get some bits and pieces powdercoated. Hopefully the powdercoater they send it to knows what he's doing with calipers and doesn't ruin them for me :sick:

Just a side question for you chris, is it possible to powdercoat just the hat of a brake rotor, or is there no way to mask the rotor face to withstand the powdercoating process?

sure can do the rotors, did them for this brake setup too. MISSION for taping. took over 30 minutes each to mask up and coat. rears are worse than fronts due to the handbrake surface inside the hat of the rear.

as long as your coater takes plenty of time to do it neatly you wont have an issue - biggest thing is that you have to mask them - then blast them, then clean them, then remask, then coat.

inside and out -

IMG_0419.jpg

these were solid rears, but you can still to the outer rim of the rotor like i did for this car on the vented rotors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...