Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats about right, dont expect more with optimax or nething, that wont make much difference at all! get it dynods with the pod filter tho! maybe even take the exhaust off see how it goes :D hmm they didnt put u into 3rd gear ? strange, i think it wouldve made abit more power than that if they took it about 140 kph

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21100-my-car-on-dyno/#findComment-444025
Share on other sites

Not bad! typical factory intake and exhaust though. That's whats producing the trail off in your torque curve. Fix that up and you'd find another 2o+kW. See here how a bit more torque can sweeten the deal up. Looks like hes running it in second too. Not a bad thing but the high the gear the lower the power figure can look, so don't be surprised if another dyno run in another gear gives different figures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21100-my-car-on-dyno/#findComment-444268
Share on other sites

I hand made mine, but you can get good ones made by the shops. I'm just running a 2 1/2" mandrel bent mild steel system with a resonator and a high flow hot-dog style mufler. A system like that shouldn't cost you more than about $250ish. Then with a set of extractors you'd definetly smooth the torwue curve out. Bigger numbers will then come once you start tweaking the cam timing and fuel map. Don't think for a second the factory fuel map is perfect!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21100-my-car-on-dyno/#findComment-444315
Share on other sites

My old mechanic made one up for me, but then again he couldnt even fix my car so i dont know how good the design is really

My car used to misfire alot too - and you could aways smell petrol :(

The spark plug gaps where wrong and they were too loose some other stuff that needed adjusting also which i cant remember off the top of my head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21100-my-car-on-dyno/#findComment-444507
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...