Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is NOT one for the faint hearted!

you need:

male and female 8pin plugs (jaycar)

32 core 18-20awg cable 2m of it

8core cable - 3m

twin core shileded cable - 2m

single core cable shielded - 2 m

LOTS of heatshrink

6 hours of patience...

nets this:

starting:

DSC_0065r.jpg

original harness with the new one sitting behind it - those are CAN lines that I'm adding 2m of cable to..

DSC_0066r.jpg

new spot for the OE unit

DSC_0067r.jpg

note the black plug - 2m of extension lead there- no lead - no audio from external sources or anything else for that matter..

DSC_0068r.jpg

new 2m extension - one plug in place

DSC_0069r.jpg

better than crimps or tape (and certainly better than the hack job on G35driver!!)

DSC_0070r.jpg

OE nav done and tested in its final spot

DSC_0072r.jpg

all done! (top gear FTW!!)

-------------

anyone wanting this one done - find another person- I'm not doing another.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211308-moving-nav-dvd-unit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cookie,

if its the rear one you have then it does not affect it. waz car has a rear one. I simply will not repeat that exercise due to the time it took. unit is under the passenger seat. you do not have to electrically disconnect teh seat so it gets a bit easier. if you do disconnect the seat be aware that you will set the airbag light when you turn the key on.

if I get overwhelmed with requests I'll make up a plug in lead for it.

I'd be in for a harness . PM me if you have the data and want someone to manufacture them. I'd be happy to do low volumes.

This I would think would be a very worthwhile and fundamental mod.

Include a rear Aux TV lead harness as well.

What would a harness cost roughly?

I presume the harness would include din socket for the new DVD unit.

gibbo

I have a local place that can do them. plugs are the worst bit of it. thing being I have to buy a 1000 of each plug and the matching pins ( there are 5 of them )MINIMUM to make them. the main nav plugs are EXPENSIVE - so for the total harness it would be in excess of $300 to make properly. the TV AUX lead I keep on hand anyway - ready made for $60-75 depending on exchange. same rule there.

the estimate I did was a plug in lead with the two CAN plugs (both sides) 8 pin DIN plugs and the main nav plugs with 2.5m of lead between them. the nav antenna plug is irrelevant as that gets replaced in most cases with a new antenna anyway. (Iin the cars I do IT DOES GET REPLACED)

the above exercise was $60 in cable and connectors.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chris,

Awesome work, im looking at doing something similiar myself in the future when i find the patience!!

One quick question, does the car operate without the OEM Nav unit installed?? If it is unplugged does it have a hissy fit?

Cheers

Laine

it will. nothing will work screen wise but yes the car does run and drive with no lights. have driven SEVERAL cars around with no dash in them at compliance doing exactly what you are asking.

what do you have in mind?

if you do disconnect the seat be aware that you will set the airbag light when you turn the key on.

Do you mean that once anyone do this, the airbag light will stay on FOREVER even though the ignition is turned back off, seat wire is reconnected, and turn it back on?

Cos there's someone on the other thread that's got an engine error message as he accidentally tried to start the car with airflow meter plug disconnected. now it seems he has the dreaded errror message FOREVER even though the car works fine now.

nope. if I had removed the seat ENTIRELY and turned the key on then I would have the same problem as the OP does. I didnt as I left the wiring intact and pushed the seat out of the way. have high res shots if you wish to look. only way to get rind of the codes is with the appropriate bit of sofware and a cable.

it will. nothing will work screen wise but yes the car does run and drive with no lights. have driven SEVERAL cars around with no dash in them at compliance doing exactly what you are asking.

what do you have in mind?

Ok fair enough. I was just trying to take the easy option and just remove the nav unit and replace it with a DVD unit and attach that to the aux input mentioned in the other thread. Pretty much the same as what you did!

Never mind, might just have to look at taking the same approach when the time comes....

  • 2 weeks later...

What do you reckon of this? 40GB HDD, its' own CPU, functions as a dvd player as well...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-DIN-In-Dash-DVD-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

I should've put the dvd player in when chris did the conversion work saves all the troubles now...

I came across the Nesa DVD-5051 as well, 1/2 DIN size so looks like slim enough to fit in e.g. glovebox or tucked in somewhere less obvious.

http://www.nesavision.com/dvd5051.html

Is this just as good as the other DVD-8000 that you told me about?

Hey now that should allow the existing unit to be set down and to the rear of where it is and the slim unit up and forward. That way no rewiring of the existing unit.Would depend on unit price as well.

Brillliant.

I get my v35 back next week so will check it out mate. Mine may well be the first v35 coupe to have tangled with 2 kangaroos (mother and joey) in the country certainly off the road for 3 months. They liked HID so much they leapt head first into the left one.

I can't wait ...

Gibbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...