Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is NOT one for the faint hearted!

you need:

male and female 8pin plugs (jaycar)

32 core 18-20awg cable 2m of it

8core cable - 3m

twin core shileded cable - 2m

single core cable shielded - 2 m

LOTS of heatshrink

6 hours of patience...

nets this:

starting:

DSC_0065r.jpg

original harness with the new one sitting behind it - those are CAN lines that I'm adding 2m of cable to..

DSC_0066r.jpg

new spot for the OE unit

DSC_0067r.jpg

note the black plug - 2m of extension lead there- no lead - no audio from external sources or anything else for that matter..

DSC_0068r.jpg

new 2m extension - one plug in place

DSC_0069r.jpg

better than crimps or tape (and certainly better than the hack job on G35driver!!)

DSC_0070r.jpg

OE nav done and tested in its final spot

DSC_0072r.jpg

all done! (top gear FTW!!)

-------------

anyone wanting this one done - find another person- I'm not doing another.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211308-moving-nav-dvd-unit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cookie,

if its the rear one you have then it does not affect it. waz car has a rear one. I simply will not repeat that exercise due to the time it took. unit is under the passenger seat. you do not have to electrically disconnect teh seat so it gets a bit easier. if you do disconnect the seat be aware that you will set the airbag light when you turn the key on.

if I get overwhelmed with requests I'll make up a plug in lead for it.

I'd be in for a harness . PM me if you have the data and want someone to manufacture them. I'd be happy to do low volumes.

This I would think would be a very worthwhile and fundamental mod.

Include a rear Aux TV lead harness as well.

What would a harness cost roughly?

I presume the harness would include din socket for the new DVD unit.

gibbo

I have a local place that can do them. plugs are the worst bit of it. thing being I have to buy a 1000 of each plug and the matching pins ( there are 5 of them )MINIMUM to make them. the main nav plugs are EXPENSIVE - so for the total harness it would be in excess of $300 to make properly. the TV AUX lead I keep on hand anyway - ready made for $60-75 depending on exchange. same rule there.

the estimate I did was a plug in lead with the two CAN plugs (both sides) 8 pin DIN plugs and the main nav plugs with 2.5m of lead between them. the nav antenna plug is irrelevant as that gets replaced in most cases with a new antenna anyway. (Iin the cars I do IT DOES GET REPLACED)

the above exercise was $60 in cable and connectors.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chris,

Awesome work, im looking at doing something similiar myself in the future when i find the patience!!

One quick question, does the car operate without the OEM Nav unit installed?? If it is unplugged does it have a hissy fit?

Cheers

Laine

it will. nothing will work screen wise but yes the car does run and drive with no lights. have driven SEVERAL cars around with no dash in them at compliance doing exactly what you are asking.

what do you have in mind?

if you do disconnect the seat be aware that you will set the airbag light when you turn the key on.

Do you mean that once anyone do this, the airbag light will stay on FOREVER even though the ignition is turned back off, seat wire is reconnected, and turn it back on?

Cos there's someone on the other thread that's got an engine error message as he accidentally tried to start the car with airflow meter plug disconnected. now it seems he has the dreaded errror message FOREVER even though the car works fine now.

nope. if I had removed the seat ENTIRELY and turned the key on then I would have the same problem as the OP does. I didnt as I left the wiring intact and pushed the seat out of the way. have high res shots if you wish to look. only way to get rind of the codes is with the appropriate bit of sofware and a cable.

it will. nothing will work screen wise but yes the car does run and drive with no lights. have driven SEVERAL cars around with no dash in them at compliance doing exactly what you are asking.

what do you have in mind?

Ok fair enough. I was just trying to take the easy option and just remove the nav unit and replace it with a DVD unit and attach that to the aux input mentioned in the other thread. Pretty much the same as what you did!

Never mind, might just have to look at taking the same approach when the time comes....

  • 2 weeks later...

What do you reckon of this? 40GB HDD, its' own CPU, functions as a dvd player as well...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-DIN-In-Dash-DVD-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

I should've put the dvd player in when chris did the conversion work saves all the troubles now...

I came across the Nesa DVD-5051 as well, 1/2 DIN size so looks like slim enough to fit in e.g. glovebox or tucked in somewhere less obvious.

http://www.nesavision.com/dvd5051.html

Is this just as good as the other DVD-8000 that you told me about?

Hey now that should allow the existing unit to be set down and to the rear of where it is and the slim unit up and forward. That way no rewiring of the existing unit.Would depend on unit price as well.

Brillliant.

I get my v35 back next week so will check it out mate. Mine may well be the first v35 coupe to have tangled with 2 kangaroos (mother and joey) in the country certainly off the road for 3 months. They liked HID so much they leapt head first into the left one.

I can't wait ...

Gibbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...