Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lets say I have a complete automatic R33 RB25DET harness with the automatic ecu.

If I were to convert to 5 speed, would a 5 speed R33 RB25DET ecu plug directly into the automatic harness?

I know some of the auto wiring will not be used if so...

Just trying to figure out how hard it would be to convert a auto Rb25DET to 5 speed.

If anyone has any OTHER information too, please post. I'll be searching in the mean time as well.

Thanks.

EDIT: I also deleted and reposted this thread btw. The first one had some funny mistakes. I've been awake over 25 hours now. :tired:

Go to sleep man! LOL

I'll have to double check but I've got a funny feeling that an auto ECU will work fine with a manual gearbox but not vice versa. Don't quote me tho...

Is the mechanical side sorted? Ie flexplate swapped for flywheel???

Yes, the mechanical side would be all sorted out.

I've also been told the automatic ECU works fine. Anyone confirm that? I need to know ASAP because I have auto R33 engine swap on hold for me, yet it's an automatic.

BTW, I noticed in your post in my last thread that you said that all RB25DET's are RWD... what about the Stagea Wagon with the AWD RB25DET? Do they have those in aussie land?

Thanks btw. (getting ready to sleep hehe)

Guest RedLineGTR

In a automatic car their are two ecus

One is the main one and the other is for the auto trans.

The main ecu is tuned less richer than the manual ecu dont know why but it is. The Main ecu with work fine with a man or auto trans.

THe auto trans ecu is mainly for the auto box itself, the main ecu just communicates to the auto ecu.

The Connection to the main ecu and a manual ecu is the same and thier should not be a problem.

Cheers Rob

Redline, thank you VERY much. I had no idea and I understand completely now.

Will there be any check engine lights though?

And does anyone have any input on my engine pictures? It is an R33 RB25DET AWD right? Because sometimes other people looking at pictures can find different things. :D

This shit is hard to get info on in america. Thanks though.

You seem to be doing things a little bit the hard way, why didn't you just get a package RB25DEt engine/5 speed complete with ECU and wireing loom or better still an R33 front cut which would have given you some very useful extras.

Because it just didn't happen that way. One of the reasons is that this engine seems to be very clean. And it comes with everything a clip would except for the interior harness, cluster, etc.

Most clips I've seen don't come with intercooler piping or any of that shit, so I'm not really concerned about having a clip.

Plus, do you have any idea how hard it is to get RB25DET clips here in America? lol.... just try to find one from a reputable place. I searched high and low, almost every site I could find had a waiting list for RB25DET clips.

ONE site had them, but I would have to wait a loooooong time to have it imported. F that.

I'll get everything figured out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...