Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1998 R34 RB25DE and was wondering if a exhaust made for a RB25DET would work on my car.....thanx lots...and if anyone knows of an exhaust for my car send me a link...thanx

I have a 1998 R34 RB25DE and was wondering if a exhaust made for a RB25DET would work on my car.....thanx lots...and if anyone knows of an exhaust for my car send me a link...thanx

One thing I know for sure is, even though its gona fit to your NA, you will loose the volumetric vacuum/scavenging efficiency. ift is a 3inch pipe then its too big, maximum you should go is 2.5" have a look at the following posts...

Post 1

Post 2

hope this helps.....

also if i find a RB25DET Cat back and its a 99 will it work? i have a 98...i thought the only difference was the body kit...but im not sure...

2.5" or 2.75" MAX i would upgrade for exhaust..

not 3" too big!

unless you have a fully high flowing powerful NA that pushes over 150rwkw hehe

even then it'd have to be a high revving motor.

the commodore/ford V8s only run 2.5"

3" is never too big....................

in the end get what you what to put on your car and not what everyone else tells you too.

yeah...ur right...thanx man

3" is never too big....................

in the end get what you what to put on your car and not what everyone else tells you too.

cara you have a 3 inch on yours.. how loud is it exactly? do you feel like you loose way to much power?

but of course all that noise and no power gain... is it worth it...., no..

People here are giving advice on if a 3" is performance wise an upgrade, and the answer is no, many threads about it too...

but here if you just want a loud car ram a screwdriver through your muffler...

you're all forgetting that a power figure (although the standard) is just a mere maximal power figure.

100kw @ 4000rpm will be a better drive than 117kw @ 5000rpm. 17kw increase at 1000rpm later, i know i'd take the driveability over the peak power increase any day.

what about the other attributes, rpm? area under the curve? torque? etc. all the fact sheets for new cars provide a power figure in reference to which rpm it was measured at. 1000kw @ 20000rpm vs. 100kw @ 4000rpm plus the torque figure, you can do the maths.

if you look at all the drag racing guys - they don't care about power figures anymore. MPH at which they cross the traps is what they are interested in. there's so much discrepancy in dynos now days that they don't care if you have 200kw or 400kw.

and since i like to have the final word on things, i'd like for the rest of this thread to remain on topic. if you wish to continue this 3" kilowatt vs. response/torque debate, bring it up in one of the other threads. actually i'd rather no one did, because it'll be a repetition of what's been going back and forth already.

everyone has their preference. if you want a kilowatt number to go off and tell others go ahead, if you want response then that is also fine, if you want to back up those figures with some drag/track/circuit times even better. that way we can at least draw some relationships between power vs. track time.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...