Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3071r Query

jaychen

By jaychen,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jaychen Enthusiast

jaychen

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i was looking at getting a GT3071R with a 0.64 rear housing on a T25/T28 flange. was wondering if this would push to much boost for my stock internals. i currently only have 255L fuel pump , 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC. i would obviously be getting a ECU remap straight after and have already got a boost EBC. ANY HELP PLEASE ? my goal at the moment is 200rwkw+ but am looking to go further in the future and what a turbo to support this statement!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212173-gt3071r-query/
Share on other sites
Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted (edited)

Theres heaps on here about how much the stock internals take, but I think anything much more over that your usually relying on the motors past history and chance etc.

I think the turbos a good choice, im actually looking at getting one myself - good tradeoff between response and power it seems

Edited by Jmaac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212173-gt3071r-query/#findComment-3748635
Share on other sites
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted
No the biggest factor is it won't bolt to your exhaust manifold , T25/28 flanged exhaust housings are too small at the inlet for 6 leg exhaust manifolds . You really need someting with a T3 flanged exhaust housing .

A .

Surprised it took that long for someone to point that out...even the dump pipe won't fit...and if you are chasing only 200rwkw or so then you are looking at the wrong turbo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212173-gt3071r-query/#findComment-3749590
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

same turbo with different exhaust housing is 280rwkw capable though.

for 200 ideally get yourself a hks 2510 or 2530, pricey and getting old though if second hand. The problem you have is that all of the small frame garrett turbos are t2 flanged, the smallest t3 flanged one is the 3071.

You could get your stock turbo highflowed, but even they are generally optimised for power around the 250rwkw mark so you have the response trade off.

Or you could talk to a turbo shop about getting a t28 cored turbo fitted to a modified stock exhaust housing. I would suggest a gt2860rs if you are going to be happy with low 200's, 2871 if you want a bit more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212173-gt3071r-query/#findComment-3750415
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      How can I remove this adhesive?

      By PranK · Posted

      A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • GTSBoy
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • GTSBoy
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
    • GTSBoy
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It always ends with the car burning down.
    • Duncan
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By Duncan · Posted

      I see what you posted, but how could a warning light be going on and off if there is no sender for it?  The only other explanation is that the wire that used to go to the sender from the warning light is earthing somehow in the loom or at the connector, or that you have connected the warning light wire to something (maybe the temp sender?).  
×
×
  • Create New...