Jump to content
SAU Community

Stereo Dramas

Parker

By Parker,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Parker Collaborator

Parker

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have an older Alpine head unit in my 32 GTR that has stopped working after driving over some really rough road works (not 4wd territory or anything but i had the stereo turned down whilst going through the works and when i went to turn it back up when past the works there was no sound).

The head unit still lights up, plays through a cd, finds radio stations and the sound display/equaliser is still moving but there is no sound. If you turn off the headunit and then power it back on you can hear the speakers 'click'. Because the only thing to change was going over some rought ground initially i thought a fuse or connection may have gone somewhere so i pulled the head unit out and it all looks good there, checked the fuse in the fuse box and also all good there. Then i pulled the doors apart and checked the connections into the speakers and crossovers and once again all is good there. I have an amp wired in the boot that has never had a sub hooked up to it since i've owned the car so i can't really say if anything is amiss back there, but it all looks good to my untrained eye.

I have an Alpine head unit, Focal 6' fronts with MB Quartz tweeters and 6.5' on the parcel shelf.

So has a connection come loose somewhere (i guess near the head unit as all of the speakers are out), a fuse that i cant find blown or what? :P

Thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Ryan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

I would have replied quicker if SOMEONES av wasn't so boob oriented... Geeze Baconer, there are kids on here! :pwned:

Are the speakers powered off your headunit, or that amp in the back? In case it isn't something simple like wiring, theres a good chance either the tiny amp in the head unit has blown, or the RCAs to the amp are gawn... either way, if you were using the head unit to power the speakers, then just buy an amp and use that to power them, it will probably still send a signal out...

If you were using the amp, check that over, it might be in protect mode after that click, or you may have lost your RCAs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3750551
Share on other sites
Parker Collaborator

Parker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Speakers are powered through the head unit as the sub function on the head unit isn't being used (no sub). As for checking the earth i can't say as i noticed anything amiss when taking the head unit out but i'll put it on list of things to re-check before i go paying anyone.

I know i also have some extra wiring in the engine bay that i think is supposed to minimise interferance with the sound from other electrical items on the car (engine noise?) I know thats a cr@ppy explanation but any ideas here??

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3750797
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

Worst case scenario, move your speakers over to the amp, unless it's a mono-block just for subs, then you will have to buy a different one... You will notice a HUGE change in both sound quality and volume if you get a decent amp onto the speakers :banana:

As for the actual problem, you say everything works, it plays through CDs and you can tell it is reading the data on the visual EQ... if you then hook up a speaker to it, and check that your levels and faders are alright (which unless you changed them they should be) and there is no sound, then the amp in the headunit is farked one way or another... could be a lost connection, dry joints, fried board... anything really... if it is under warranty, you will probably have to take it back... if it isn't and you want to keep it, you can still pay to have it repaired, but if it is a cheap head unit, it may not be worth it :banana:

K home time nao :pwned:

Double check everything... it's often something silly, but I just skipped all the obvious stuff ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3750821
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

if you hear a click then that is the amplifier going into protection- you have a short somewhere. pull a speaker at at time with the radio on low volume. that will show you what went wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3750991
Share on other sites
Parker Collaborator

Parker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pulled the power to the cross overs on both front doors one at a time and still had the click. Moved onto the rear speakers and noticed that they actually go to the amp (my bad, i thought it was all through the headunit). Wiring goes from left and right rear speakers to the L & R on the amp with another set of wires that run through the vehicle with the RCA's to the rear of the head unit (i.e. both the speaker + & - and the other wire + & - in each of the L & R socket on the amp). Disconnecting the rear speakers and the other wires from the amp leads to a loss of the click but no sound at all.

Amp is an Axis "Mosfet 300watt 2 channel bridgeable power amplifier"

Earth is still intact and happy. The amp's 30amp fuse is still good.

I'm lost, are the other wires that go to the back of the amp (other than the rear speakers) providing the signal for the rear speakers or the fronts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3754609
Share on other sites
Parker Collaborator

Parker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's an Axis amp, power light is on, protection light is not.

Headunit is an Alpine CDM-7874EB, i've tried the reset out of desperation and suprise suprise no change. The noise i describe as a 'click' when turning the headunit on or off seems to come from the speakers themselves.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212246-stereo-dramas/#findComment-3756475
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...