Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

But if its too low what will the tread pattern ware be?

So i'll start off at 32 psi?

Or better to start of centre 35psi?

I can't do damage can i?

If they are under inflated, then the outsides will wear out quicker

If they are over inflated, then the middle will wear out quicker

Personally I would try 30 psi cold, as in first thing in the morning, in the garage, before it moves.

Cheers

Gary

i got 17/235's i think and i run 43psi in the front, 41psi at the back.

I'd back that off a bit man, seems very high unless the tyres you have are made to be run that high :P

I normally run between 35-38psi, if someone can tell me they can feel a difference of a couple of psi on the street they are full of shit.

personally I like very high pressures for spirited drivng on street tyres. 36-38 cold. even with low profiles tyes, the improvement in handling is worth the increased harshness to me :P

I hate to ask the newbie question, but I assume you would normally run lower pressures on the track?

I ran the usual street pressures, about 38psi on 17/9/45 (factory rims) tyres on the track and handling was excellent, one of the instructors thought I was running semi-slicks :P

For an R33 GTR is that too high for the track?

But is it bad for the tyre? It was my first track day so I wasn't sure what I should/should not have been running.

personally I like very high pressures for spirited drivng on street tyres. 36-38 cold. even with low profiles tyes, the improvement in handling is worth the increased harshness to me :P

depends, i only really run sports tyres with stiff sidewalls so i dont worry too much about sideways flex, sure its there, but if the tyre pressures are too high i get terrible grip. i changed my RE070's from 38psi to 28psi, and the change in grip was amazing, i didnt notice a whole lot more sidewall movement, just the amount of extra grip was amazing. they were a 225/45 mounted onto a 17x8.5, so very mild stretch. i dont worry about tyre wear on the road, i change tyres that much that i rarely get a chance to see any noticeable wear caused from driving around on the roads, so its hard to go by that.

I hate to ask the newbie question, but I assume you would normally run lower pressures on the track?

I ran the usual street pressures, about 38psi on 17/9/45 (factory rims) tyres on the track and handling was excellent, one of the instructors thought I was running semi-slicks :P

For an R33 GTR is that too high for the track?

But is it bad for the tyre? It was my first track day so I wasn't sure what I should/should not have been running.

well on the track u are driving a lot harder and building up more heat in the tyres, so there is a larger pressure change in them from the servo, to you driving at full speed.

hmm well i did start at 35-38psi when i bought the car....

then i read max 51psi n im like shit better crank up this mofo...

but since general consensus here is 35-38psi.....i might switch back!:)

well on the track u are driving a lot harder and building up more heat in the tyres, so there is a larger pressure change in them from the servo, to you driving at full speed.

I've also heard that having higher pressures means less sidewall flex and less heat built up (or should I say less quickly)?

Anyway, thanks for the opinion.

I've also heard that having higher pressures means less sidewall flex and less heat built up (or should I say less quickly)?

Anyway, thanks for the opinion.

yeh it will reduce sidewall flex, but its all about sacrifices, and a decent semi slick will have more rigid sidewalls and stop a lot of sidewall flex.

and yes, that sounds about right with the higher pressure and less heat build up, but id say that would be to do with the extra friction and all with a lower pressure tyre, its this that gives you grip though. so i guess its a trade off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...